SLR camera

[WJS]

I am looking to purchase an SLR camera to be used for casual photos as well as digi-scoping of birds.
I am looking for sugsestions of a model and a lens.
Woulld like keep cost below $1,000
I have found the EOS Rebel line to be highly recommended by Consumer Reports
Thanks

[Skirball]

I don't know what digi-scoping is.  But bird photography in general requires lenses that start at the $1000 mark and go up.  That's not saying you can't do it with less, just giving you an idea.

I would recommend getting the Rebel T5i with both kit lenses (18-55 and 55-250).  THe 18-55 isn't that great of a lens but it'll get you started.  I don't know what they're going for these days, but I'd guess somewhere around $800.  It's a good starting set.

[WJS]

Thanks for the reply and suggestions.

Digi-scoping is where you actually attach the camera to a spotting scope.  Most good scopes now have adaptors to make the attachment.

The long range and focus of the scope allows you to take up close photos of birds.

Thanks again

[cicopo]

That (digi-scoping) sounds interesting. Got a link to some equipment? I might want to try it.

[WJS]

Hi,

I am just starting my research.

But any of the good spotting scope companies will have equipment on their sights.

Nikon, Swavaroski etc.

If I find a particularly good site, I'l post if on the forum.

B

[WJS]

Hi

Links for digiscoping.

www.eagleoptics.com/articles/digiscoping

www.birds.cornell.edu/.../gear/Digiscoping

www.allaboutbirds.org › Birding Basics

You can also "Google" digiscoping.

the scope companies have attachments to hold a camera on the scope.

I am pretty sure I am going to buy the top Canon Rebel EOS Camera and attach it to a Swarovski 65 Scope

Hope this helps.

Birding is fun.

[cicopo]

I did exactly that & concluded I'm better off with what I have now or the lens I'll be adding to my kit sometime in the new year. .

[TCampbell]

Your choices are... (roughly in order of where they rank in the line-up) The T3 being on the low end and the T5i & 60D being on the high-end.

• T3
• T5
• T3i
• SL1
• T5i
• 60D

Of these, the T3 is a 15 megapixel camera.  All the rest are 18 megapixels cameras... the image quality and ISO performance (noise levels) will be nearly identical across the remaining bodies.    The T3 and T5 are the most basic and these have less advanced focus and metering systems.  The bodies with the "i" suffix are higher end in the Rebel line and each year Canon tends to introduce a new Rebel ... and the remaining bodies all slide down a notch.  

The SL1 is a bit different in that it doesn't rank in the order so simply... the purpose of the SL1 is to be compact.  All DSLRs are bulky... but the SL1 is the least bulky of any DSLR on the market with an APS-C size sensor.  Of course being compact means  fewer direct-access buttons (more use of menus) and/or controls may need to be closer together.  SO.... the camera gets a touch-screen LCD (so the T5i also has a touch-screen.)

The 60D was the first body to get an articulated LCD screen and that feature was also given to the T3i.  The T5i has an articulated LCD screen which is also touch-sensitive.

All of the bodies have a 9 point AF system... except on the 60D and T5i all 9 of the points are "cross type" points... whereas on the other models only the center point is "cross type" and the remaining points are single-axis focus points.  Due to the nature of how auto-focus works on a DSLR camera (vastly faster than a point & shoot), the camera uses "phase detect" focus in which light is passed through a tiny prism to split the light into two "phases".  But the prism has an orientation (typically horizontal or veritical).  It turns out that some subjects ... for example shooting tall (vertical) grasses with a vertically oriented auto-focus point means that the AF point *might* not focus as accurately.  So the "cross type" point has both a horizontal and vertical phase at the same time and is much more difficult to confuse it (this wont matter when digi-scoping since the focus is manual.)

The T5i is the highest end of the "Rebel" line (if you go up a notch you end up in the mid-level bodies).  It has an articulated touch-screen LCD and all 9 AF points are "cross type".

The 60D does have a few advantages over the other bodies.  The 60D is technically a mid-level body.  The Rebel bodies are considered "entry" range bodies.  This 60D has dual control wheels (one on front and one on back) whereas the Rebel's just have one wheel in front.  This control layout is more similar to Canon's pro level bodies.  The 60D also has a top LCD screen with some direct-access buttons to set exposure and other settigngs more quickly than can be set with a Rebel body.  And lastly... the 60D body actually has some weather treatment.  It is NOT waterproof (don't drop it in water).  But if splashed or if you're caught in a light rain, you don't need to worry as much.  BUT... there are many limitations to this.  The memory card door and battery door are not weather-sealed.  Also the lens mounting flange on the front of the body has no seal and the camera is, of course, vulnerable if this is not capped.  Canon makes *some* weather-sealed lenses (they tend to be expensive).  These lenses have a silicone skirt that seals the lens flange so water cannot get in.  But a T-ring adapter for mounting a digi-scope will NOT have a weather sealing skirt (basically a gasket).  That means that when digi-scoping in the rain... there are SOME vulnerable spots.  A camera "rain jacket" is advised for these situations (basically a rain-coat with "arm" holes so you can reach your hands inside to operate the camera in the rain... without the camera getting wet.)

The 60D is now an older mid-level body ... which is why it sells for under $1000.  It's been replaced by the 70D (a significantly improved camera).  But the 70D is well above your budget and probably not up for consideration.  

Arguable there are numerous similarities between the 60D and T5i because both have articulated LCD screens and 9 "cross type" af points.  The T5i is a newer model so it got a touch-screen display (which didn't exist when the 60D was a new model) but the 60D has a control layout more like a pro body AND it has *some* weather-treatment (sealed gaskets and o-rings on buttons, dials, and body seams... but there are some weak-points in the weather sealing and it's not "water proof".)  The 60D has a better body build.  For this reason, I tend to think of the 60D as still being a higher end camera (just slightly) than a T5i.

[ebiggs1]

People usually get hung up on the camera.  It is a factor to be sure but the photo is made with the lens.

A T5i will make good images with the kit lenses but it will make spectular ones with better lenses.

I can not get you into a great birder camera and lens for a grand but if money is tight why waste it on lesser lenses like the "kit" lenses.  Even if they are really cheap.  There is a reason!

Probably the best, for less, birder set up is the T5i or T3i (small savings) and the EF 400mm f5.6 L.

Also remember the picture is only 50% done in the camera and 50% done in post editing.

What in the world is "digi-scoping"?

BTW, the above suggested set up will not be good for much of anything else.  But that is one great factor with a DSLR, you can taylor lenses to what you need.