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how to do MFA?

iphonemaster93
Rising Star

Hi guys

 

So after a few weeks of owning the 7DMKII, I realize that even when I manually focus my shots (I don't use a tripod and I do automotive photography), If I zoom in to the maximum in Lightroom, the photo is still dull (on the lowest ISO at 1/320 as I realize that 1/320 is when the photos are 'sharpest'). Is this because the lens that I'm using isn't calibrated to the camera (using a 17-55 2.8) or is it because I'm just shooting wrong? I've tried both manual focus and the different AF zones, all of them, when zoomed in on LR, are dull. Thanks!   

66 REPLIES 66

Also, I think I still will do MFA for my 17-55 just in case. The photos from the 35mm 1.4 turned out well but the 17-55 needs some adjusting. I also sometimes just don't have the time to get more than one shot sometimes, when I don't have time necessary to set up for a manually focused shot (used manual focus for all my good shots with the 35mm), the AF will be somewhat back focused. What chart should I use for it? I'm thinking about doing it either today or tomorrow.

Check online.  You can d/l several.

EB
EOS 1DX and 1D Mk IV and less lenses then before!


@iphonemaster93 wrote:

Also, I think I still will do MFA for my 17-55 just in case. The photos from the 35mm 1.4 turned out well but the 17-55 needs some adjusting. I also sometimes just don't have the time to get more than one shot sometimes, when I don't have time necessary to set up for a manually focused shot (used manual focus for all my good shots with the 35mm), the AF will be somewhat back focused. What chart should I use for it? I'm thinking about doing it either today or tomorrow.


My 17-55 requires +9 points of AFMA. It's just one of the rare reminders that the 17-55 isn't really an "L"-quality lens.

Bob
Philadelphia, Pennsylvania USA

yeah i'm just not sure whether to go with the cheaper, non MRC CPL or the MRC CPL, if the results do really make a difference then i'll get the MRC version. Yeah I'm thinking of doing MFA but I keep on forgetting to print out one of those charts XD


@iphonemaster93 wrote:

yeah i'm just not sure whether to go with the cheaper, non MRC CPL or the MRC CPL, if the results do really make a difference then i'll get the MRC version. Yeah I'm thinking of doing MFA but I keep on forgetting to print out one of those charts XD


You don't need charts. All you need is a scene with subjects at various depths that are recognizable enough that you can tell when they're in focus. In theory, charts might increase your accuracy a little. But remember that microadjustments can be set only in discrete intervals, and accuracy finer than the interval value is useless.

Bob
Philadelphia, Pennsylvania USA

You can use a wooden yard stick.

EB
EOS 1DX and 1D Mk IV and less lenses then before!


@ebiggs1 wrote:

"... Hoya 67mm Hoya CPL in comparison to a B+W MRC CPL?"

 

I wouldn't.  I prefer and most of my filters are B+W.  They are top notch.  However, the fact they can be removed when need be still exists.  You need to assess your requirements and buy accordingly.


Back in the film days, one might need a half dozen filters in each lens size, and the cost could add up. Now all you need is a circular polarizer in each size, so you might as well get a good one. A few years ago I splurged and bought two 77mm B+W CPs, since the size is so common. With reasonable care those filters will last for the rest of my life, and by now I've forgotten about the money.

Bob
Philadelphia, Pennsylvania USA
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