12-25-2019 06:44 PM
Did the PCB board itself actually get wet? Corrosive/conductive residue from moisture is pretty obvious, circuit boards are washed after wave soldering so just getting wet with de-mineralized water doesn't kill them but residue will however conductive residue from this sort of moisture event is generally visible.
Failure of controls from excessive moisture exposure is a common issue with Canon camera lines which aren't weather sealed and I suspect that is where the moisture has created gremlins. The reason just drying often doesn't work is a lot of the residue that is carried in by the moisture remains electrically conductive after it dries. On a related note, one of the reasons you don't use typical cleaners for the exterior of electronic products is the residue left from them after they dry creates all sorts of problems if it is carried into the inner workings via moisture. In the 1990s, there was an different variation of the current industrial version of 409 cleaner that was excellent for removing a lot of substances but the residue it left behind was highly conductive. I used it for some radio restoration where it was the best choice between a cleaner that wouldn't remove what needed removing and one that would remove stuff you didn't want removed but it required a very thorough cleanup with another agent after the 409 product did its thing.
After 6 months, you are looking at doing a full flush of any area that would have gotten significant moisture into it and for an 80D it just really isn't worth the level of time required unless camera repair of a single camera looks like an appealing new long term hobby. Also you will have the nagging question of whether you have cleaned it thoroughly enough that the next radical temperature change combined with high humidity won't result in an apparently OK repair once again experiencing a fault condition. I have several cameras but I can't think of any situation where I would be comfortable using one where the probability of gear failure is high due to a known existing risk factor.
12-25-2019 11:09 PM
Hi, Merry Christmas.
I have the same problem with my 80D last year. In my case, water did not damage the PCB. Everything works except the rear LCD display which stayed black all the times.
I tethered to shoot by connecting it with a micro USB cable to my PC and wireless connecting it my ipad Pro as well. Remote shooting was enabled. It worked and liveview and playback were normal. I can change menu settings as well.
Send your 80D to Canon repair for a quote. If the cost exceeds that of a used 80D, you don't have to proceed with the repair. Keep the 80D and continue to play with it with tethering and use the money to buy a M50 which has a similar sensor and it performs quite well. ( I paid US$469 to buy a new M50 with kit lens and I guess replacing 80D PCB costs around the same or more.)
If tethering works and you don't want to spend the money repairing it, use it with a smart phone/ipad. Then you have a bigger screen.
12-26-2019 09:53 AM
Believe you have received lots of excellent advice, When you said, I replaced the LCD and board, I assumed the LCD and PCB. The LCD has a little (integrated) logic board in its ribbon cable, so I didn't think you were referring to that.
What we are all trying to tell you is this. Its not worth it in the long run to throw money at this camera hoping you might "fix" it. If you want it fixed, send it to Canon.
Anything else is a gamble. 50/50. Not so good odds. You have a high probability of failure, that's 100% certain. Many of the guys here are Pros who depend on equipment that functuions reliably. Others like myself haven't earned their living taking photos, but are passionate about photography. We aren't going to recommend throwing mud at a wall to see what sticks.
While I could easily afford 2 or more bodies, I wouldn't waste a minute of time carrying one of questionable integrity or reliability.
Great you have an EOS R now. Either "fix" the 80D right, or move forward with a reliable "back up" body.
12-26-2019 12:59 PM
12-26-2019 02:33 PM
Another nearly miraculous product you might want to try for cleaning electrical contacts, switches and terminals is DeOxit. I've had good results with DeOxit D5 spray on a few projects, but the spray version might be a bit messy to use on a DSLR. Check their website and you'll find several other specialized cleaners in aerosol cans, brush-on and pin-point eye dropper bottles.