New to here.... I have a 5D, in need of suggestion of gear to shoot sports in low light

[Rdzk]

Daughter is a competitive cheerleader. Competitions are inside. Son is also a basketball player. I have a 5D. Need to purchase lens and flash. Thanks in advance!

[cale_kat]

I would trade the 5D for a 7D and get a top-notch zoom like a 70-300mm f/4-5.6L IS USM.  I'd get this, rather than a 70-200mm f/2.8 because it will be, IMHO, a better value in the long run for a family photographer. I also think the image stabilization is worth the trade-off in larger apperature values (something you'd get with the faster f/2.8) but the cost, while substantial, doesn't rise to the astronomical cost of a stabilized 70-200mm f/2.8. The 70-200 f/4L IS is another option.

The 7D body brings autofocus capabilities better suited to sports photography than your 5D and from the sound of your post, you're starting from scratch so no biggie to adjust the body consideration. Ha ha.

Good luck.

[ebiggs1]

You failed to mention a budget?  This will determine more of what to do with your 5D than simply trashing it for another camera.

Also, you did not mention what results you are expecting. If you have the original 5D(?), it is certainly capable of taking photos of your kids 'sports' action.  If it is the 5D Mk II, it is a very good camera.

[TCampbell]

Is this an original 5D (aka 5D "classic"), a 5D II, or a 5D III.  The classic and II don't have focusing systems optimized for action photography -- but the 5D III does.

Ordinarily the indoor lens of choice is the EF 70-200mm f/2.8L IS USM II... but that is NOT a cheap lens (about $2300 new).

Both Sigma and Tamron also make 70-200 f/2.8 lenses.  They're also not cheap (no 70-200 f/2.8 is ever cheap) but they are considerably less expensive than the Canon (I still think the Canon is better and if affordability isn't an issue then that's the direction I'd go.)

Each "full" f-stop will either halve or double the light collecting (depending on if you're going up or down (the order of full f-stops is f/1, f/1.4, f/2, f/2.8, f/4, f/5.6, f/8, f/11, f/16, f/22, and f/32... it goes on but it's extremely rare to find a lens with an f-stop higher than f/32).   That means that an f/2.8 lens can gather double the light (or use a shuter speed which is only open half as long) as compared to an f/4 lens... which is twice as fast as an f/5.6 lens.  That makes the f/2.8 lens four times faster than an f/5.6 lens.  When you're trying to "freeze" action, that speed means everything.  An f/4-5.6 variable focal ratio lens (like a 70-300mm f/4-5.6) is only f/4 at the short focal length end (the 70mm end).  Zoom in a bit and it quickly becomes limited to f/5.6 as it's lowest focal ratio.  Unless you've got plenty of light or like to shoot at very high ISOs, that can be a problem for indoor shooting.

To "freeze" most action, you want to be able to achieve a shutter speed of 1/500th or faster.  With typical indoor gymnasium lighting, even with an f/2.8 lens, you may be shoting at ISO 6400.  With an f/4 lens you'd have to shoot at ISO 12800 to maintain that shutter speed.  And with an f/5.6 lens... you'd have to double the ISO again.  Most of these indoor shots are taken using f/2.8 glass.

You can go to flickr.com and search for "basketball" photos, look at the EXIF data (exposure settings) and quickly realize what you're up against.

ALSO... before making a purchase, consider renting the lens (lots of places such as LensRentals.com, BorrowLenses.com, etc. will rent the lens) so you can try it out and decide if it's something you'd like to purchase before you make the financial commitment.

[cale_kat]

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@TCampbell wrote:

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To "freeze" most action, you want to be able to achieve a shutter speed of 1/500th or faster.  With typical indoor gymnasium lighting, even with an f/2.8 lens, you may be shoting at ISO 6400.  With an f/4 lens you'd have to shoot at ISO 12800 to maintain that shutter speed.  And with an f/5.6 lens... you'd have to double the ISO again.  Most of these indoor shots are taken using f/2.8 glass.

You can go to flickr.com and search for "basketball" photos, look at the EXIF data (exposure settings) and quickly realize what you're up against.

ALSO... before making a purchase, consider renting the lens (lots of places such as LensRentals.com, BorrowLenses.com, etc. will rent the lens) so you can try it out and decide if it's something you'd like to purchase before you make the financial commitment.

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It isn't uncommon to benefit 2-stops in aperture value by using image stabilization and technique is essential to "freeze" action.

[draco]

Wow, a lot of bad information in here. Image stabilization has absolutely zero effect on freezing motion blur. It will help with a shaky hand holding the camera but it has no effect on fast moving subjects.

A full frame camera is going to be far better inside than a crop body; it has excellent low light performance.

TCambell's post is excellent. I agree renting a F2.8 lens he mentions is a good idea. Another idea is use any lens you can find with an appeture of F2.8 or larger. The 50mm 1.8 is only $100. Test out the lens at F2.8, F4 and F5.6 and see if you can get acceptable pictures; even if its a very wide zoomed out picture. This will give you an idea if you need a F2.8 lens. Cannon makes some excellent 70-200 F4L lenses. The one without IS can be had for $500 used.

[cale_kat]

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@draco wrote:

Wow, a lot of bad information in here. Image stabilization has absolutely zero effect on freezing motion blur. It will help with a shaky hand holding the rcamera but it has no effect on fast moving subjects.

A full frame camera is going to be far better inside than a crop body; it has excellent low light performance.

TCambell's post is excellent. I agree renting a F2.8 lens he mentions is a good idea. Another idea is use any lens you can find with an appeture of F2.8 or larger. The 50mm 1.8 is only $100. Test out the lens at F2.8, F4 and F5.6 and see if you can get acceptable pictures; even if its a very wide zoomed out picture. This will give you an idea if you need a F2.8 lens. Cannon makes some excellent 70-200 F4L lenses. The one without IS can be had for $500 used.

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Draco, some bad reading too!  Before you become the next self-annointed expert, you should read before you post. I never said anything about freezing action with IS. Sheez!

A full frame camera is going to be far better inside than a crop body; it has excellent low light performance.

You're killing me! That "excellent low light performance" is only relative to the autofocus system.Take away the superior autofocus system and you've got a lot of light without anything in focus.

That's a heck of a way to introduce yourself, first post and all...

[ebiggs1]

"Wow, a lot of bad information in here."

Get used to it.  There is an 'Ignore' feature. 

[cale_kat]

When someone posts twice in a row (or was that three times?) and makes snide remarks with every post concerning others, you know you're in for a "ride". Ha ha.