11-07-2013 08:40 AM
Yes, your 430 EX isn't powerful enough. Everything has limitations and you have reached the 430's limit.
Nix CA and put the camera on P, for Professional! Either choose the P setting or go manual.
You probably need multiple flashes if your venue is so large. For larger church's, I generally use three flashes if I can't set the ISO high enough for good pictures with out adding light. We are rapidly approaching the time where flash will be unnecessary. And I can't wait.
11-07-2013 10:41 AM
1. With an External flash - 430 EX set at ETTL, the pictures in the room when bounced from the ceilings are good, however when I am taking in closed areas but the ceiling is very high or open areas in the night the picture is unexpectedly dark. The camera mode I am using is CA.
Well, certainly in open areas trying to bounce a flash isn't going to work. Bouncing is fantastic, when the situation allows, but it's going to be highly dependent on your setting - you can't ever count on being able to bounce. Try some modifiers. Personally, my favorite is a cut out piece of white card stock, sort of like a giant bounce card. They sell commercial version, but they're really not much different (except if you're working in a professional setting, sometimes looks do count). Other's love their Gary Fong Lightsphere. I would to generics if you do, I think that thing is overpriced.
11-07-2013 01:03 PM
It would not be my first choice and I would not recommend it. One thing for sure a 200mm at f5.6 is nothing to brag about.
If it is all you have, you will just need to figure out how to best use it. That means, shoot a lot!
11-07-2013 06:37 PM
11-07-2013 08:19 PM
There are a number of reasons for that, and a worn lens could be one plus it's still possible it isn't sharp enough (& may never have been) for use on a high megapixel camera where you view your images at or near pixel level (100% on screen). Maybe it needs to go through the microfocus adjustment process, or maybe you think the AF point is on target but when you take the shot it switches to something else. Have you tried using single point AF & placing it exactly where you want it? Have you tried any of this from a tripod to eliminate camera shake? Are you using too low an ISO for the situation? Have you set the camera to sync (when using flash) to 1/200 or 1/250 if it goes that high? .
11-08-2013 08:22 AM
cicopo is on the right path. You need to know whether you and your lens and your camera are all seeing the same thing.
Get your self to a place where you will have good light and good color and take some photos. Do use a single AF point. Make sure you an the camera are focused on exactly the same thing. Do use P. Set all the 7D's controls to factory defaults, except a single AF point (the center one).
Until you find out which one of you, the lens, the camera or you, is not understanding what the wanted conclusion is, you are chasing your tail.
11-08-2013 09:17 PM
Mr. cicopo, Thanks for your previous advise which did significantly improve the picture quality but I have an issue with the flash pictures, maybe you can guide
With an External flash - 430 EX set at ETTL, the pictures in the room when bounced from the ceilings are good, however when I am taking in closed areas but the ceiling is very high or open areas in the night the picture is unexpectedly dark. The camera mode I am using is CA.
When using the flash to "bounce" off a ceiling, the ceiling needs to be neutral (e.g. preferably white) -- otherwise the color of the ceiling (or anything you use as a bounce surface) will "tint" the color of the light.
If the ceiling is low, you can do a normal bounce.
If the ceiling is a bit high, you can "feather" the light or use a bounce card. There are numerous gadgets that help in this area but even a simple 3x5 card strapped to the head of the flash with a rubber band is a big help. The idea is that the white surface of the card will kick light that *would* have gone backward to instead get kicked foward directly toward the subject -- providing some direct light, but you'll also get the bounce from the ceiling giving soft overall light. Tilting the head of the flash forward a click may help as well.
I don't like the full "diffuser" heads -- they don't work as well for high ceilings because the milky plastic eats about 1 full stop worth of light (cutting your flash to half power). The diffuser *does* kick some light forward -- so it helps to feather -- but at the expense of a light of light. The full diffuser caps work if the ceiling is low-ish and the flash is more than adequate on power.
The Gary Fong "Lightsphere" is completely open on top -- so it works to feather light forward *without* cutting the light that you're bouncing off the ceiling.
If the ceiling is too high for a bounce -- or if it's black or has a non-neutral color, then you don't want to bounce anyway. For this the best bet is to just point the flash forward *but* "drag the shutter".
Dragging the shutter simply means using shutter speed priority (Tv mode), setting the shutter to a slow-ish speed (around 1/60th is good) and then metering for the AMBIENT light (not the flash) but using the flash anyway. This results in a nicely illuminated main subject, but instead of the background being really dark (due to light fall-off) the slower shutter speed actually captures a lot of the room ambient light and the whole shot actually look spretty good.