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How woulf you fix this - Shot min auto with too high an ISO

mangurian
Enthusiast
1 ACCEPTED SOLUTION

TCampbell
Elite
Elite

Open it in Canon Digital Photo Professional 4

 

At the top of the "Tool Palette" window there are 7 tabs... you want to pick the one that says "adjust image detail" (when you hover over it).  It icon looks like a bunch of squares with a magnifying loupe.

 

You'll see a "Noise Reduction" section.

 

Drag the "reduce chrominance noise" slider all the way to 20

Drag the "reduce luminance noise" slider over to about 13

 

Be warned that "noise reduction" and "sharpening" are basically opposites (especially luminance reduction).  So you try to do as little as possible noise reduction to preserve sharpness.

 

ALSO note that if the image isn't viewed at full size, the noise isn't nearly as apparent.  So depending on how you plan to use the image, you can be even less agressive.

 

 

 

ISO is not really a part of "exposure" ... only shutter speed and aperture are attribtues of exposure.  ISO is an amplification which is applied to an image only AFTER the shutter is closed and the exposure is complete.  If you get sufficient exposure, you don't need to apply that amplification/gain.

 

ALL digitial sensors have "noise" in every shot (even at ISO 100).  But you don't notice it because you're eyes aren't sensitive enough (it's extremely subtle).  But if an image is underexposed by (in your case 4.125 stops) then you have to amplify all your data by 4.125x (which is what ISO 2000) does.  But this amplifies EVERYTHING by 4.125 (including the noise).  So now noise that your eyes couldn't detect at all at ISO 100 -- even though it is technically present -- is easily noticed when it's 4.125x stronger.

 

You shot this at 1/500th, but it's not an action shot.  You probably could easily have gotten away with 1/100th (and that would have let you use ISO 400 and you'd have very little noise at that ISO).

 

 

Tim Campbell
5D III, 5D IV, 60Da

View solution in original post

8 REPLIES 8

Ray-uk
Whiz

Personally I think it looks pretty good for ISO 2000. It does look a bit less noisy if you reduce the sharpening, but even so the noise only shows up at large magnification and it depends on how you intend to view or print this shot.

I agree with Ray.

Bob
Philadelphia, Pennsylvania USA

ebiggs1
Legend
Legend

I am curious, why ISO 2000 in a ISO 100 shot?  Was it just a miscue and not intentional?

EB
EOS 1DX and 1D Mk IV and less lenses then before!

I like noise.  Smiley Very Happy

 

Actually a mistake.  We amateurs do that sometimes.   I know pros NEVER do.

That's a good reason!  However if you wanted to remove some noise both LR and ACR have NR sliders.  Just remember when doing edits less is usually more.

EB
EOS 1DX and 1D Mk IV and less lenses then before!


@ebiggs1 wrote:

I am curious, why ISO 2000 in a ISO 100 shot?  Was it just a miscue and not intentional?


I think it's an ISO 400 shot.

Bob
Philadelphia, Pennsylvania USA

TCampbell
Elite
Elite

Open it in Canon Digital Photo Professional 4

 

At the top of the "Tool Palette" window there are 7 tabs... you want to pick the one that says "adjust image detail" (when you hover over it).  It icon looks like a bunch of squares with a magnifying loupe.

 

You'll see a "Noise Reduction" section.

 

Drag the "reduce chrominance noise" slider all the way to 20

Drag the "reduce luminance noise" slider over to about 13

 

Be warned that "noise reduction" and "sharpening" are basically opposites (especially luminance reduction).  So you try to do as little as possible noise reduction to preserve sharpness.

 

ALSO note that if the image isn't viewed at full size, the noise isn't nearly as apparent.  So depending on how you plan to use the image, you can be even less agressive.

 

 

 

ISO is not really a part of "exposure" ... only shutter speed and aperture are attribtues of exposure.  ISO is an amplification which is applied to an image only AFTER the shutter is closed and the exposure is complete.  If you get sufficient exposure, you don't need to apply that amplification/gain.

 

ALL digitial sensors have "noise" in every shot (even at ISO 100).  But you don't notice it because you're eyes aren't sensitive enough (it's extremely subtle).  But if an image is underexposed by (in your case 4.125 stops) then you have to amplify all your data by 4.125x (which is what ISO 2000) does.  But this amplifies EVERYTHING by 4.125 (including the noise).  So now noise that your eyes couldn't detect at all at ISO 100 -- even though it is technically present -- is easily noticed when it's 4.125x stronger.

 

You shot this at 1/500th, but it's not an action shot.  You probably could easily have gotten away with 1/100th (and that would have let you use ISO 400 and you'd have very little noise at that ISO).

 

 

Tim Campbell
5D III, 5D IV, 60Da

" ISO is an amplification which is applied to an image only AFTER the shutter is closed and the exposure is complete."

 

You can think of it like the volume knob on your stereo.  In each case you are asking the electronics to provide more amplification of a weaker signal.  At higher volume levels on your stereo you probably hear some distortion, same, same.

EB
EOS 1DX and 1D Mk IV and less lenses then before!
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