07-06-2015 10:23 PM
Thanks much Tim as usual you gave a fine detailed explanation.
This all is virgin turf for me, I've never shot fireworks and have very limited night time experience with my camera. But I thank you guys for taking the time to help me understand here. I'm starting to get more serious with my shooting technic and using a tripod more. My hands are not steady at any range anymore and it's hard to get good results sometimes handheld at farther zoom range. My hands don't shake like Don Notts, but they're never totaly steady. I appriciate your suggestion to use manual mode, I do that sometimes but I mostly use P or AV. Another problem I have is my eyesight is not the best and I wear glasses. Sometimes I can't tell if my shot is any sharper looking through the viewfinder in manual, AV, or P mode with IS off or on...on my tripod. . I do need new glasses, I have'nt gotton a new perscription since right after my caterac surgery over a year ago. My sight was better right after my surgury but it has deteriated alittle since, and now stabalised. I'm well overdue for new glasses and have an appointment to get new ones this coming wed. I'm not saying all this for anyother reason thatnso you guys can give me any suggestions you think would help with my circumstances. I'm determined to become at least a decent photographer, no matter what issues I may have now or in the future. I read you, bob, biggs and all you guys post everyday. I'm learning, but at this point my learning seems to be slower.
07-06-2015 10:29 PM
Firework shots are different than the typical night shot because the fire part is so bright.
If you are shooting something that is not moving, or if you are shooting something like fireworks where you actually want motion blur, camera shake blur and subject motion blur are not an issue so as long as you have a tripod. You can have the cheapest camera and the cheapest lens and still get a good exposure in very little light even at small apertures. Just use a long enough (10 sec, 30 sec, etc.) exposure and let the camera soak up the available light.
Add in a speedlight flash, set to 2nd curtain sync and you can add in a moving subject and freeze them in sharp unblurred images provided you heavily underexposed them - to the point they show up as black - for the ambient lighting, and then you let your flash freeze their image for you.
07-06-2015 10:40 PM
Thank you Scott I will surely file all this away for furure reference. Good info. Though alot of what you said went right over my head (lol) Not complaining, I'm taking it all in, I will surely use it. Just will take me a little time thinking over it, letting it all sink in. You guys gave me much info that was new to me and I'm sure other newbies will benefit greatly as well as I.
07-06-2015 11:40 PM - edited 07-15-2015 01:12 PM
BTW Tim.....I was'nt asking what f stop you used with your lens, I was asking what the fastest aperture is of the lens you used. As in my 24-105mm L f4 USM. My lens aperture is a constant f4. What's the aperture of the lens you used???
Sorry if I was'nt clear.
07-08-2015 02:48 PM
heres one from a few years back over the bay, i believe this was about a 20 second exposure to capture multiple bursts, bulb mode with remote switch on tripod, low iso setting
07-15-2015 10:00 AM - edited 07-15-2015 10:01 AM
Scott, these are amazing shots, how is it possible that you can see for example in the last of the four pictures you posted several circles of light (that would have taken a at least a couple of seconds to travel) and still having the girl perfectly sharp with a so long exposure? Was this achieved in one single shot?