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Group Portrait shots Canon 5D - Advise needed?

kairous1
Apprentice

Hi:

I'm a newbie in photography.  Got a 5D hand me down. I recently took  family group pictures, shooting in AV mode. I was shooting on a tripod.  Afterwards, in looking at pictures I notice that some people in the picture are in focus and others are not.  I was experimenting wiht the manual AF so was wondering if that was my problem since not all the AF "lights" lite up.

 

For better group shots where everyone is in focus, what should I have done?  Should I have put it into auto program mode?

 

Very disappointed with my efforts so hope some of you in the community can teach me a thing or two.

 

Thanks

Jeff

8 REPLIES 8

amfoto1
Authority

Most likely your problem is too shallow depth of field and an uneven plane of focus.

 

Group portraits can be particularly tricky. If you use a large lens aperture thats rendering shallow depth of field, you have to make sure all the subjects' faces are lined up on the same plane of focus (which is parallel with your camera's sensor plane, unless you use a special Tilt-Shift lens to change it).

 

Alternatively, or maybe in addition, select a smaller lens aperture that will increase depth of field and allow you to get all of your subjects adequately in focus. To be able to do this and still have a high enough shutter speed (even on a tripod), you might need to use a higher ISO. When photographing people, even using a tripod you often still need to keep shutter speeds up to some degree, in case they move slightly during exposure. The tripod (and Image Stabilization on some lenses and cameras) can help with camera shake.... but can't help with subject movement.

 

Blur due to subject movement can be mistaken for focus problems. So just be sure you know which you are dealing with, or your corrective efforst might not help.

 

In time you will learn to estimate what aperture is needed in particular situations. Depth of field is controlled by the lens aperture and the distance to the subject. Lens focal length is a secondary factor, in that it in part determines your working distance (though depth of field doesn't actually change with changes in focal length).

 

A wider angle lens can help, but you then have to start to watch out for optical perspective distortions that can look particularly odd with portraiture. Too close to your subject with a wide lens and you'll see exaggerations, where their nose looks big and their ears look small.... and where people nearer the edges of the images appear to be anamorphically stretched.

 

Some things I'd suggest are to study up on depth of field, get a depth of field calculator and use it, and to pick up a copy of "Understanding Exposure" by Brian Peterson.... it's a very helpful book that discusses these and many other factors in much more detail than we can offer here.

 

***********
Alan Myers

San Jose, Calif., USA
"Walk softly and carry a big lens."
GEAR: 5DII, 7D(x2), 50D(x3), some other cameras, various lenses & accessories
FLICKR & PRINTROOM 

 





Alan:

Oh man, that would make sense, especially if I'm using AV mode.  I'll have to check what DOF I was using.  If i was using 2.8 (I have on a 24-70 2.8L lens) that would make a lot of sense!!!!

 

thanks for the words of wisdom!

Jeff

Good advice from Alan.  The book he suggested is one of the most popular for those starting out -- it does a great job explaining the basics and does not use language that presumes you've been shooting for years.  The Scott Kelby Digital Photography series (which I think is 4 volumes now) is also popular.

 

Lower focal ratios (f-stops) collect more light, but have a narrower focused range (depth of field) and increase the blur in the out-of-focus areas.  Higher focal ratios collect less light, but have broader focused range.  But if the lens collects less light, then you need to compensate by either leaving the shutter open much longer OR by increasing the ISO sensitivity of the camera.  If you leave the shutter open longer, then there's a great risk of blur due to either camera movement or subject movement while the shutter was open.  If you increase the ISO, then the image has more "noise" in it.  

 

These three factors (aperture, shutter speed, and ISO) are sometimes referred to as the "exposure triangle" because when you change one, you have to compensate by changing something else to make up for it.  Bryan Peter's book (Understanding Exposure) will do a great job explaining it to you.

 

Tim Campbell
5D III, 5D IV, 60Da

Tim and Alan:

Thanks for the words of wisdom, I should have thought about the DOF during the shoot.  Will look up that book.

 

Jeff

One other thing when shooting large groups, take more than one shot. Bracket shots are also a good idea.

I do yearbook photos and some groups have up to 200 kids in them. I generally take four to five shots of each group.

EB
EOS 1DX and 1D Mk IV and less lenses then before!

Someone will always manage to blink. 😉
Tim Campbell
5D III, 5D IV, 60Da

"Someone will always manage to blink. ;-)"

 

Yes they will, yes they will.................Smiley Surprised

EB
EOS 1DX and 1D Mk IV and less lenses then before!

Oh, BTW, I use my 5D Mk II with the 24-70mm f2.8 on it 98% of the time.

I always use a Manfrotto 055 XProB tripod.  Also try to avoid shooting up or down at your subjects.

EB
EOS 1DX and 1D Mk IV and less lenses then before!
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