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Cannot take ANY focused moving object photos using my new 1D X MKII and my EF 100-400mm f/4.5-5.6L

LanceA
Enthusiast

First let me familiarize you with my back ground a bit.  I have enjoyed photography off and on for some time.  However, my previous camera was a 2003 Canon 10D.  I really decided to take a bit of a step up when purchasing a new 1D X MKII, the above listed lense as well an EF 24-70mm f/2.8L  II USM  lense.   I purchased a nice gimble, a shoulder rig, 4 large C-Fast cards, extra batteries, etc...

 

The 4K 60 FPS videos are spectacular through this setup (could do without the Motion JPEG Codec for sure), and the functionality is a breeze.

 

But I am far more interested in the still photography side of my Canon 1D X MKII and lenses.   I have read the ebtire manual several times and the on-line available AF setup guide from Canon.   My camera and both lenses, as well as my older Canon lenses, have no prblems when auto focusing on STILL objects, but as soon as there is movement such as a large water bird flying by my position, then I cannot get this camera to focus AT ALL.   I have no issues when maintaining the bird (as an example) in the focus area of the lense, then activating the back button focus while depressing the photo button.   Even at 14 frames per second I end up with zero shots in focus!   I have tried almost every AF area selection mode and all 6 of the Focus Cases  along with everything else that a very inexperienced novice such as I can think of.   I really hope that I am simply missing something that someone here can help me uncover.  I am so frustrated at this point that I am willing to pay someone who owns a similar setup to walk me through their 1D X MKII setup to hopefully get to the bottom of my issue.  Unfortunately I cannot find anyone in my area and we no longer have any camera shops around.

 

Thank you very much for you help and and understanding in advance.

 

Lance A.  

46 REPLIES 46

I like the suggestions about KISS! I have been trying back-button focus on my new 6D and while I have gotten some incredibly sharp pictures, I've also gotten some that are less so. I just reset my camera to have BBF back on shutter.

jrhoffman75
Legend
Legend

Thats an excellent suite of gear.

 

Birds in fklight (BIF) is very challenging.There is a difference between motion blur and out of focus; as Wadizzle said you need a fast shutter speed to freeze the motion.

 

If you are panning to keep bird in frame (which it sounds like you are) be sure to turn off or select the panning mode for Image Stabilization.

 

Practise on easier subjects. Maybe theres a youth soccer games or even softball where subject motion is slower.

 

I have found that back button focus (and disabling shutter button focus) is good for situations where you want to achieve and freeze focus at a particlar location, say first base at a ball game, when a player appear and disappear - it stops the camera from refocusing and you just control exposure with shutter button.

 

When following a moving object combined focus/exposure with shutter button seems best for me.

John Hoffman
Conway, NH

1D X Mark III, Many lenses, Pixma PRO-100, Pixma TR8620a, LR Classic

TTMartin
Authority
Authority

Add me to the list of those that don't use BBF.

 

If you use BBF you have to keep pressing the back button for continuous focus.

 

So if you are shooting a sequence of action shots (moving subject) you have to press both the shutter and the back button at the same time.

Instead of BBF, I reprogram the AF ON button to be AF OFF, and leave focus start on the shutter button. 

 

That gives me the ability to press the 'back button' when using AIServo when I need to temporarily suspend focus.

 

I find that the times I need to suspend focus are a lot less than the times I want continuous focus. So for me BBF would just mean having to press two buttons (back button and shutter button) most of the time. Where having the AF OFF button available just means I occasionally have to press two buttons (back button and shutter button)

 

As a sports and wildlife photographer I want continuous focus most of the time. I only want to stop focus on rare occasions. So I'm going to have to press two buttons most of the time, so on rare occasions I can remove my thumb and stop focus? Seems silly to me. Why would you want to have to press two buttons most of the time?

 

16586885_10158181984085693_1517571621069334547_o.jpg

A00A8938.jpg

 

Those two are the last of about a sequence of 6.

As Art Morris says, 'when something happens press the shutter button'. I'd rather be able to do that then have to do a two button sequence. 

 

By setting up the AF ON button to AF OFF you don't have to deal with the camera refocusing when you don't want it to as you can simply press the back AF 'OFF' button to stop it from refocusing. Times when I don't want continuous AF like focusing on a bird sitting on a branch through other branches of a tree, those then to be more laid back occurrences. I have the extra time to focus on the bird, either manual focus or slight focus and recompose, while pushing the back AF 'OFF' button.

 

Two more examples of tracking a bird moving towards the camera.

Glossy Ibis photobomb (near midair collision)*.

 

Another Great Egret gets photobombed, this time by a Great Blue Heron*

 

*All images in the GIF are copyright Tom V. Martin (All Rights Reserved)

That is such good advice which I have already began to follow.  Back to useing the shutter button the way that it was intended, at least until I gain the experience needed to better work with custom settings.

 

Thanks a bunch!

 

Lance A.

TT, NOW I understand your post to set 'AF-ON' to AF-OFF! As I am new to back-button focus, and have in fact decided to abandon it for a while due to a few blurry shots (which may be caused by me), I came across your post a couple of weeks ago. Didn't understand the logic behind it to be honest, but now all is clear. Thanks!

"I am new to back-button focus, and have in fact decided to abandon it  ..."

 

I am not a fan of it either but I come from a place where all the new gadgets cameras have were not even none existent.  I still think it best to start simple and add the 'helers' as you learn.  Learning the basic camera, like a 1Dx2, is daunting enough in itself.

EB
EOS 1DX and 1D Mk IV and less lenses then before!

jrhoffman75
Legend
Legend
Look into Serif Affinity software.
John Hoffman
Conway, NH

1D X Mark III, Many lenses, Pixma PRO-100, Pixma TR8620a, LR Classic
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