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Blurry photos 60D-70-300 IS USM 4-5.6

Robodot
Enthusiast

So the only solution to the canon problem is moving back to Lumix cameras.

2 ACCEPTED SOLUTIONS

I take pictures of flowers and birds handheld on the fly, this canon camera does a very poor job of it, i will just sell all of it and go back to the Lumix.

 

thanks for your interest

View solution in original post

well here it is ladies and gentlmen, $%^&^&*(*&*(&_(*_)(_+, yes you heard right, i am throwing my hands up, I give up. At 100 feet, which is usually where the birds are, i can not get a decent picture and all of them are not usable, frankly they are all trash. been doing this since high school, hobby,  I have tried everything, every possible thing you folks and myself can imagine, no more. it should not be anywhere this difficult, I should be able to hand brace this camera at 300mm at 100 feet and take tack sharp photos, never have and never will.

 

thanks for trying to help

View solution in original post

28 REPLIES 28

If you are shooting from a tripod, I would turn the IS off. Using a tripod with consumer lenses and bodies is one of those shooting scenarios where IS can work against you.
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"The right mouse button is your friend."

http://gdlp01.c-wss.com/gds/7/0300003627/02/ef70-300f4-56isusm-im3-eng.pdf

John Hoffman
Conway, NH

1D X Mark III, Many lenses, Pixma PRO-100, Pixma TR8620a, LR Classic


@Robodot wrote:

ok, so I checked the front and back focus, there is a slight back focus at 300mm. i get  very clear handheld photos without IS at 1/1000 shutter and above, 1600 was very good. i dont know what all this means in the end but i may be getting closer to a solution.

 

what does this mean? is the image stablization causing a problem or did the 1.1.2 firmware help??


It does not mean anything to me.  Without knowing more about shooting and focusing mode and, of course, seeing sample photo with EXIF, no conclusions can be drawn.  You have not described your shooting conditions, either.  ?Handheld” does not really say much because it could mean a wide range of things.

 

When I use a super telephoto lens handheld, I like to use a shutter that is at least 1/2*FL with a full frame, and 1/4*FL with a crop sensor.  The faster shutter speed is the likely explanation for sharper photos.

There is probably very little wrong with your IS, but during some types of shooting conditions it can work against you.  The IS in consumer lenses is designed to correct camera shake.  It can get confused when you start panning around.

--------------------------------------------------------
"The right mouse button is your friend."

Were you getting focus confirmation beeps when you took your test shots?

 

I just noticed that your EXIF says that you are using AI Focus AF focusing mode.  Most photographers just about NEVER use that mode.  Use either One Shot, or AI Servo focusing mode, always.  That mode is used in Green [A] mode.

 

With that body, I would do most of my shooting in One Shot mode.  AI Servo does not wait for the camera to lock focus before it fires the shutter, which is the problem with using AI Focus mode.  For test shots, use One Shot and the Shutter Delay timer.

 

I would also take some test shots at f/8, instead of minimum aperture.  I have never used that lens before.  If were shooting sports with that lens, I would be inclined to first try using it at f/8.  Minimum aperture is the best way to take test shots, but your target setup will not tell you much about front or back focusing.  Taking photos of a yardstick, or tape measure, at a 30-60 degree angle can show you that, with 45 degrees being the best angle.

--------------------------------------------------------
"The right mouse button is your friend."

Do you have another lens you could try, even if you could borrow one from someone? That could at least eliminate technique or camera as a problem. 

 

If I recall correctly, in an earlier post you mentioned how long it seems to take the tripod to steady. Am I recalling correctly?

 

If so, then I wouldn’t rely on that tripod as a shooting accessory. A good tripod should be rock solid. It doesn’t take much motion to cause motion blur. The mantra for most camera gear is “buy cheap buy twice”. 

John Hoffman
Conway, NH

1D X Mark III, Many lenses, Pixma PRO-100, Pixma TR8620a, LR Classic

I am sending the kit to canon, they are sending me a shipping label, let ya all know, thanks.

did you try to clear up all settings in camera and restore to default settings ?

Sharpening is certainly applied to JPEGS, at what magnification does this blurriness appear?

Waddizzle
Legend
Legend
Two things. Perform test shots at a distance of 25-50x the focal length. Increase by the crop factor for APS-C sensors.

Your tripod is probably vibrating because the center column is raised. Drop it to its’ lowest position.
--------------------------------------------------------
"The right mouse button is your friend."

well here it is ladies and gentlmen, $%^&^&*(*&*(&_(*_)(_+, yes you heard right, i am throwing my hands up, I give up. At 100 feet, which is usually where the birds are, i can not get a decent picture and all of them are not usable, frankly they are all trash. been doing this since high school, hobby,  I have tried everything, every possible thing you folks and myself can imagine, no more. it should not be anywhere this difficult, I should be able to hand brace this camera at 300mm at 100 feet and take tack sharp photos, never have and never will.

 

thanks for trying to help

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