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70D focus issues

bja5150
Contributor

I am having some focus issues with my Canon 70D. I noticed it a while back, did some research and discovered that center point focus issue. Mine was still under warranty so I sent it in to confirm it. Canon said it was fine and sent it back. After I got it back, I still wasn't 100% satisfied. I soon after took it in to get the calibration tested with the lenses I have. A friend referred me to a camera store he trusted and the camera was adjusted. The numbers I was told were off. My 2.8 Sigma was off by like 20 while my L series 70-200 was off by 6. I saw some improvement, but still not as sharp as I felt it should be. I worked with it and then began to get frustrated. I called Pro Photo in Portland and they referred me to their repair location. There one of the workers asked if I had changed the calibration settings and I told him I had another camera store do it. I was just looking for a second opinion in you will. He said the previous store's numbers were off some so I was like come on. I cannot contiinually pay to have someone tweak my numbers and started considering buying my own calibration software and measurement kit. My camera does have some wear and tear around 40,000 shots so not new, but not old either. I am just wondering if the home process is hard to do. I really don't want to buy another camera right now and was hoping to invest more into a better 24-70 type lens. When the focus is good its good. It just seesm to be soft at times even with the points focused on. I know there are factors that can afffect focus user wise, but repair wise I know its not me. I do make my mistakes, but I am worried I got a lemon. Any help would be appreciated. This is one of my 2017 resolutiuons to resolves asap. I want to get back to enjoying what I do and not fighting with my gear, Thanks for reading.
   

12 REPLIES 12

kvbarkley
VIP
VIP

Google Lens Align for a store bought solution.

 

It is not that hard to do even without hardware, google dot-tune method.

That looks like a route I will go. I just wanted to get some feedback on the home process. I just need to figure the issue out so I can get back to enjoying taking photos. Just been super frustrating, Thanks


@bja5150 wrote:

That looks like a route I will go. I just wanted to get some feedback on the home process. I just need to figure the issue out so I can get back to enjoying taking photos. Just been super frustrating, Thanks


It is possible that the camera is off but it is very unlikely that it's off with all lenses...I think you should make really sure it's not user technique and also don't have the expectation that every single shot will be in razor sharp focus...there will always be a certain ratio,

 

The AF micro adjustment (AFMA) method is a last resort option and the adjustment is often effective at a fixed lighting condition and often at a fixed focus distance...the Canon manual actually mentions this.  That might explain why another shop found the results of the one shop that made the adjustment for you as off.  These two didn't test at the same test conditions.

 

Technique-wise, just in case you didn't notice, every time you press the shutter button half way, the camera focuses and beeps if focus is achieved.  Now if you didn't keep depressing the button half way and  for composing, you shift the camera and press the shutter to take the shot...the problem with this is the camera will refocus and if the point of focus has changed and the original focus is changed. This is often the problem.  That's why the camera has a focus lock button to combat this.  Another method is to use the back focus button.  Whatever method, one must recognize the potential problem.  

 

There is another problem, and this comes with the modern, highly sophisticated camera like the 70D...there are multiple focus points and you can move the focus point to several places...the camera is programmed to remember the last point so if you had moved it to some other point not in the center...it will remain off center.  You must make sure you know where the focus point is.

 

The key is to make sure you have mastered the camera focusing capabilities and drawbacks before giving up on a camera...

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Diverhank's photos on Flickr

"The AF micro adjustment (AFMA) method is a last resort option and the adjustment is often effective at a fixed lighting condition and often at a fixed focus distance...the Canon manual actually mentions this.  That might explain why another shop found the results of the one shop that made the adjustment for you as off.  These two didn't test at the same test conditions."

 

The AFMA tests should be performed several times, and average adjustment calculated, before entering it into your camera. Performing AFMA under artificial lighting that flickers, will yield inconsistent results.  Testing under bright sunlight has given me the most consistent auto-focusing conditions, which yields the best AFMA settings.

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"The right mouse button is your friend."

amfoto1
Authority

Reikan FoCal is a software that automates the Micro Focua Adjustment process and might be something you find helpful. With it you will be able to make your own adjustments and not have to rely upon the store. Google Reikan FoCal and read about it, if you're interested.

 

***********


Alan Myers
San Jose, Calif., USA
"Walk softly and carry a big lens."
GEAR: 5DII, 7DII (x2), 7D(x2) some other cameras, various lenses & accessories
FLICKR & EXPOSUREMANAGER 


@amfoto1 wrote:

Reikan FoCal is a software that automates the Micro Focua Adjustment process and might be something you find helpful. With it you will be able to make your own adjustments and not have to rely upon the store. Google Reikan FoCal and read about it, if you're interested.


The difficulty involved in achieving correct AFMA settings tends to be exaggerated in some of the discussions in this forum. All you really need to do is find a scene containing objects at various distances from the camera and photograph it at a series of AFMA settings. Then zero in on the one that has the best correspondence between what's actually in focus and what the camera thought was in focus. It's not only not rocket science; it's not even complex optics.

Bob
Philadelphia, Pennsylvania USA

ebiggs1
Legend
Legend

I like one other responder think this is a technique issue and not a camera/lens problem.  Until that is resolved you will never get to where you want to be.

One question, is anything in the offending photo in focus?  If nothing is in sharp focus, it is most likely a user issue.  You must identify the cause before you can apply a fix.

EB
EOS 1DX and 1D Mk IV and less lenses then before!


@ebiggs1 wrote:

I like one other responder think this is a technique issue and not a camera/lens problem.  Until that is resolved you will never get to where you want to be.

One question, is anything in the offending photo in focus?  If nothing is in sharp focus, it is most likely a user issue.  You must identify the cause before you can apply a fix.


Most bad shooting techniques can very easily be taken out of the equation by simply putting the camera on a tripod, and using a shutter release, or the internal shutter delay timer.

 

There are also both good and bad techniques, and approaches, to making an AFMA adjustment, too.  Lighting can have a significant impact on how well the camera focuses, particularly with artificial lighting.  I think bright sunlight is best for AFMA testing because of the broadband nature of sunlight.

--------------------------------------------------------
"The right mouse button is your friend."

Waddizzle
Legend
Legend

"I cannot contiinually pay to have someone tweak my numbers and started considering buying my own calibration software and measurement kit."

 

Do a web search for "Dot Tune", and find the YouTube video that walk you through it.  Also, getting a good target is just as important as getting a good distance. It is free, and you can do it yourself.  It isn't complicated.  But, it helps to be meticulous.

 

Ideally,you want to be at the same distance as your subjects.  But, who knows what that will be.  The "Dot Tune" method advises you to be a 50x the focal length.  I got my best results testing my telephoto lenses in an empty parking lot, and focusing on the lines that framed the parking spaces.  My camera was elevated about 8 feet above the parking spaces.  I was on a small hill next to the parking lot.

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"The right mouse button is your friend."
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