01-01-2019 08:18 PM
01-01-2019 09:38 PM - edited 01-01-2019 09:40 PM
Well it says efs 18-55mm but I just looked at the UV filter I have and it says 58mm
You are looking at two different lens specifications. The 18-55mm specification describes the focal length of the list, which is basically an end to end description.
The 58mm specification for a filter describes the diameter of the front lens element. Each specification is completely independent of the other.
The shape of a lens hood is determined by the physical dimensions and characteristics of the lens. A tulip lens my look cool, but it could be the wrong size and shape for the your lens focal length, and could show up in the edges of our photographs.
01-01-2019 11:26 PM - edited 01-02-2019 10:23 AM
Which version of the Canon EF-S 18-55mm do you have?
The Rebel T6 is an entry level DSLR and usualy sold with either the EF-S 18-55mm 1:3.5-5.6 III (no Image stabilizatio) or the EF-S 18-55mm 1:3.5-5.6 IS II (with image stabilization)
More advanced DSLRs like the T6i, T7i, SL2, or 77D are usually sold with the EF-S 18-55mm 1:3.5-5.6 IS STM or EF-S 18-55mm 1:4-5.6 IS STM
Most Canon EF-S 18-55 lenses have a front element that rotates as it focuses. Only the STM versions of this lens have a front element that does not rotate.
If the front element rotates, you can not use a "tulip" hood as it will show up as dark corners in the image at certain focus distances or focal lengths. There are some 3rd party sellers with "tulip" style EW-60C lens hoods, but if you try to use one, you will get dark corners.
The non-STM versions use the EW-60C which has a 60mm bayonet mount on the front element of the lens.
The STM versions use the EW-63C which has a 63mm bayonet mount.
01-03-2019 10:06 AM
" I am looking for colored lenses ..."
Colored filters are a thing of the past. Do it in post editing, one of the easiest things to do in post, BTW. Canon makes the correct hood for your lens. Try them first.
01-04-2019 01:38 PM
Using colored filters was a thing back in the days of film ... and primarily for shooting black & white film because it changes the contrast. The filters allow things to pass through if they match the color of the filter, but block things that don't match.
It was sometimes even used for color film becuase you could do things like enhance sunsets, etc.
But this is now so very easy to do with photo editing software that the need to use physical color filters is virtually eliminated with few exceptions.
In astrophotography, we use broadband light pollution filters and sometimes also use narrowband filters to enhance details from deep-sky objects (mostly emission nebulae).
For typical photography (non-astrophotography), the filters still commonly used are:
(1) circular polarizing filter (aka "CPL") because this will help reduce unwanted reflections and can help make colors pop.
(2) neutral density filters (aka "ND" filters). These change the shooting circumstances. They are commonly used to allow for longer exposures to deliberately create blur in moving subjects (waterfalls) but there are many uses for them.
Some people will still use "gradient neutral density" (aka "GND") filters. These are typically rectangular filters that are clear on one half and darked on the other half. They let you do things like darken the sky without darkening the foreground. You can technically do this in post processing. But if you're losing dynamic range in a landscape shot, it may be easier to use a physical neutral density filter rather than rely on post-processing. So this is a third category where some photographers still use physical filters. Since these filters are retangular, they require a filter-holder. The holder threads onto the lens and has slots to let you slide in the filters.
Most other uses for a physical filter has probably been replaced by digital manipulation in post processing software.
If you have multiple lenses with different filter thread diameters, you can get "step up rings". These are rings that have a smaller thread diameter for the camera side ... and a larger thread diameter for the filter side.
For example, most of my lenses use 77mm diameter filters. But my 100mm macro has a 67mm diameter. I own a 67 to 77mm "step up ring" which lets me attach the 77mm filters to my 67mm diamter threads. The "step up rings" are cheap (typically $15) and avoids the need to buy another expense set of filters in a different diameter.