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Rebel T3 1100 D shutter button is "freezing" or "locking up"

fraternaltwin57
Contributor

Practicing with my Rebel T3 1100 D outdoors and my shutter button is locking up making the picture impossible to capture.  This is happening intermittently, meaning, I haven't seen a pattern.  Eventually, after turning the camera off and on a few times, I can refocus on another "subject" and capture a shot.

 

I was wondering what I'm doing wrong.  The manual does not cover this particular problem that I'm having.

 

A younger friend, he's a nurse who does photography on the side, shot with my T3 last week and he encountered the shutter button "freezing up" or "locking up", so he was unable to take the picture.  He said it shouldn't do that, but isn't familiar with the EOS cameras.  He suspected possibly it's a problem for "warranty" to look at or something set somewhere in the camera that I haven't figured out.  Because, later on, he shot more with it, and then all of a sudden he couldn't get a picture again, he thought it might be an actual camera problem or bug.  Advised me to send back while my warranty is in effect.

 

You push down on the shutter button, subject comes in focus, then you push down further to capture the shot and the button does not function.  

 

Please help if you know anything about a shutter button problem with the EOS T3.

 

Thank you so much for your time.

 

Julie

11 REPLIES 11

cicopo
Elite

I posted this in the other thread you asked about the problem.

 

Your problem may be that the AF hasn't locked onto something in the scene. That can happen due to many things because it needs to see a contrast betwwen things in the scence to establish how far it is from the camera. Check your manual to see if your camera has an AF confirmation light that shows up in the viewfinder (green dot on my cameras). If the light isn't on the AF hasn't locked onto your subject & the camera won't take the photo.

"A skill is developed through constant practice with a passion to improve, not bought."

Sorry cicopo,

 

I haven't figured out the forum posting yet, so I appreciate your patience.

 

I'm actually not using auto focus modes as they definitely don't allow for the correct lighting, rather, they seem to give a standard shot.  I'm using "AV" and "TV" modes, playing around opening my aperature all the way, etc. for different light situations.

 

The guy that used my camera used AV, TV and M mode.

 

Maybe I don't get my camera, but I didn't think auto focus is a factor in those modes.

 

I appreciate your input and realize I need to clarify exactly what I've tried.  

 

Thank you for your courtesy.

 

Julie 

Hi Julie

You are confusing the basic zone modes (portrait, landscape, etc) with auto-focus.

Cicopo is probably right. It's the auto-focus that is not locking and wont allow you to take a picture.

I responded to you in the other thread as well.

 

The reason for this may depend on what mode you're shooting in (Av, Tv, M, P etc). If your in one of the semi-auto modes (Av, Tv) where the camera is making some of the decisions for you, it could be that you've chosen a setting that requires an extremely long exposure - 1 second or more - giving you the feeling that its locked up.

 

In low light situations this may happen often - and you'll need to adjust one of the three settings (shutter speed, aperture or ISO) to get a proper exposure.

 

Again, depending on what mode your using, both the problem and the solution may be different.

 

Walt

 

Thank you WaltA,

 

You all have cleared up for me that auto focus is not something that only happens in the Camera auto selections.  I hadn't understood that when I use the AP, TV & M, which I how I'm trying to use the camera, that the camera still auto focuses to lock on the subject.

 

I will pay attention to the distance in the viewfinder and the shutter speed.  I suspect that I'm not waiting long enough.

 

I really appreciate that all of you who have responded understand I know nothing with regards to the "digital" technology world.

 

Working with autistic & special needs kids I'm used to visual learning and spelling everything out.  I'm a visual learner as well, much easier for me to read your suggestions and work it on the camera at the same time.

 

Thank you for your patience, help and time.

 

Julie

AF is controlled by the camera UNLESS you turn the AF / MF switch (located on the lens) to MF (manual focus). From the way I'm reading the info you've added you are trying to shoot in low light, which is very taxing to the AF systems on most cameras, especially with consumer grade lenses. You'll often read the term "fast glass" or a "fast lens" which refers to lenses with wider max apertures, which allows more light in for the AF to work with. One of the more common work arounds is to set the camera to use ONLY the single center AF point. When that doesn't work it's time to use MF but without a focusing aid (such as the split prism used before AF) it's tough to hit aa perfect focus regularly.

"A skill is developed through constant practice with a passion to improve, not bought."

Yes.  I actually turn the lens switch from AF to MF.  I wasn't aware I could use AF in the AV, TV or M choices.  And yes, I have been asked to cover a city Christmas event occuring in the evening, so I'm trying to figure out how to get the most out of the equipment I currently have.  My Canon 85mm f/1.8 is my best lens at the moment.   My husband bought me a Canon 100mm f/2.8 many years ago that I am just now using.  My husband bought me quite a few lenses and Speedlites years ago when I used to cover sports for the paper here.  They were stolen so I am seriously limited with regards to lens choice and no exterior flash at this point.

 

I will change to use the single center AF and see what happens.

 

Thank you once again for your knowledge, explanation and courtesy.  Take care.


Julie 

Sounds like you should also experiment with the higher ISO settings for that. Do a set of shots around the house and see where you draw the line re noise vs IQ. You may get away with ISO 3200 depending on your final use for the photos. I know my 7D did very well at ISO 3200, so well I couldn't tell the difference from ISO 800 on screen.

"A skill is developed through constant practice with a passion to improve, not bought."

Yes, thanks.  I have been playing around with the ISO.  My next step is to put them on the computer at various ISO's to see if I can detect any difference on the larger screen. 

 

Your 7D is leagues above mine:)  Yours is 2.2x less shutter lag when taking a pic, more than 2x faster continuous shooting, 2x faster maximum shutter speed, much longer battery life and the list goes on.  My husband bought my T3.  If I were buying, I would have picked the 7D to begin with for the larger viewfinder alone:)

 

Thank you again for your experience and help.  Your courtesy is appreciated.  Take care.

 

Julie

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