@ebiggs1 wrote:"What you need is software that performs
"focus stacking.""
He is absolutely correct about needing post editing software. But focus stacking is just a small part of the process. Great photos are made in post, rarely in the camera! IMHO, of course and subject to change.
The tripod and shooting straight down is also a winner.
The above shot is an example of using a tripod to "shoot straight down" at a subject. This tripod allowed for the center column to be reversed, flipped upside down, so that the head can be positioned with a ball head as shown.
I am shooting at an angle to avoid casting a strong shadow over the plate of food, juevos rancheros. Normally, one would use special lighting and a light box. This shot was taken to illustrate how to use a reversible center column.
Here is a shot of the plate of food. The actual shot was taken with the tripod raised higher, so that the camera aimed straight down, and so that the MFD, minimum focusing distance, of the lens was maintained. Ambient light and a "long" exposure was used.
What is it? It's a couple of fried eggs, served over a bed of Spanish rice, and a bed of pinto beans. This is covered with sauteed salsa, queso fresca and crema, along with fresh tostitos, some grated iceberg lettuce, and avocado slices.
This shot was taken with a T5, and the 18-55mm kit lens.
UPDATE
First and foremost I wanted to thank everyone who took the time to respond to my post.
I purchased a ProMaster 7100 Tripod and it seems to suite my needs just fine.
So now that I have the tripod I attempted to shoot in AV mode with my macro lens. This is f16, iso 100 and I could not figure out how to change the exposure from 0. The dial near the view finder didn't change it nor was i able to pick it in the digital display while in AV mode. It is way, way too dark.
I completely agree about using software to edit. I have photoshop and lightroom. I even purchased a colorchecker **bleep** which I am struggling to use. I feel way in over my head.
I really need simple, begininer advice. My understandling of photoshop is a begininers understanding. The reason I initially posted was because I need the entire jewelry in focus before I can cut it out and paste it onto a pure white background in photoshop which is what most jewelry companies do. Then I went to the camera shop and they sold me on the colorchecker **bleep** because I would love to be able to get an image that just looks great and doesn't require being cut out. I literally spent 6 hours today trying to figure it out and because i'm also new to lightroom I was having a hard time.
But I digress, white balance aside I am still having a hard time getting everything in focus. I also tried f32 iso 100 for a 0"6 exposure and the photo looks the same as this.
@Metalsmith wrote:UPDATE
I really need simple, begininer advice. My understandling of photoshop is a begininers understanding. The reason I initially posted was because I need the entire jewelry in focus before I can cut it out and paste it onto a pure white background in photoshop which is what most jewelry companies do. Then I went to the camera shop and they sold me on the colorchecker **bleep** because I would love to be able to get an image that just looks great and doesn't require being cut out. I literally spent 6 hours today trying to figure it out and because i'm also new to lightroom I was having a hard time.
Since you are fixing the aperture to f/16 and the ISO to 100, the only thing you can change is the time. Therefore you should use either Tv or M and not Av. In Tv or M mode just change the time value (Tv) to something that would proper expose. In your picture, looks like it might need to be around 1.5 seconds or so. Properly exposed, I think your background will look white. In light room you can use the dropper, click on the background and it will adjust the color to white for you.
For this kind of shooting, it is best to use live view so you can see exactly what the picture will look like exposure-wise...it won't show you the depth of field, unfortunately. Here is how to get to live view.
In Av and Tv mode, you can also use exposure compensation to change the way the picture look (i.e. brighten it). The dial next to the viewfinder is not the one to use. Here is an excerpt from your manual
I must tell you to read up more on how to use your camera before you can get the kind of professional looking pictures that you desire.
"I must tell you to read up more on how to use your camera before you can get the kind of professional looking pictures that you desire."
I would have to agree with that sentiment. If you have never heard of "exposure triangle", do a web search for it.
http://learn.usa.canon.com/resources/articles/2015/understanding-exposure-triangle.shtml
Ernie said that great pictures are made in post. He's right. It took more clicks to load the image, than it did to edit.
I brightened up your photo by 1 stop, did a click white balance on the background.
BTW, those spots are a dirty sensor. You need a BLOWER to clean it off. Get a professional to do it for you at this point.
@Waddizzle wrote:"I must tell you to read up more on how to use your camera before you can get the kind of professional looking pictures that you desire."
I would have to agree with that sentiment. If you have never heard of "exposure triangle", do a web search for it.
http://learn.usa.canon.com/resources/articles/2015/understanding-exposure-triangle.shtml
Ernie said that great pictures are made in post. He's right. It took more clicks to load the image, than it did to edit.
I brightened up your photo by 1 stop, did a click white balance on the background.
BTW, those spots are a dirty sensor. You need a BLOWER to clean it off. Get a professional to do it for you at this point.
Yes a Rocket blower bulb or a knockoff of the same.
You you can also use the "clone" function in Lightroom to make a little spot disappear in about 2 seconds in the develop module. You do want to get the dust off the sensor though, so you don't have to do the same spots over and over again in every shot.
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