Canon EOS Rebel xTi

[johnscel]

My Rebel is taking blurry pictures.  I have watched several videos and tried to solve the problem but I am not having any luck.  Here are a few that I have recently taken.

[ebiggs1 · Accepted solution]

Do you see how confusing this can be?  All these inner web "experts" can't even come together on how you should start out.

They all have their idea of the correct answer. 

As I suggested just leave the XTi in the P mode.  Take your time to learn how it is working.  Don't mess with the other settings that will only make it more difficult to see what went right and what went wrong. Remember KISS ?

A lot of the time the camera is smarter than the photographer.

The camera records the settings it used to take the photo.  You should look at it.  After a while you will begin to see what works and what doesn't.  But if you don't choose my way and you mess up the settings, you now know how to reset the camera!  Get it back to square one.

[ebiggs1]

"The things you cite as positives, are exactly the reasons why I think "P" mode is better for new users. Sports mode isn't simple."

There just may be hope you yet, my friend! 

[TTMartin]

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@Waddizzle wrote:

 

Another big issue I have with Sports mode is that you cannot manually select the center AF point.  The camera automatically selects an AF point for you, most often the AF point with the nearest object to the camera,  I think that not only will the keeper rate be higher using the manually selected center AF point, but camera operation will once again be simpler.  You press the shutter, and the same AF point lights up, exactly where you aim it.  Point and Shoot.

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This is one of the biggest misunderstandings about Canon Auto AF point selection. When you are in One Shot or AIFocus it behaves as you understand. When the camera is in AIServo it behaves entirely differently.

When in AIServo, Auto AF point selection mode DOES start with the center AF point. With all of the advantages that you site. The difference is that if while AF is active (holding the shutter button), if your subject moves away from the center AF point, then the outer AF points will attempt to continue to track the subject.

So when shooting sports you should be using AIServo and Auto AF point selection, just like the Sports mode chooses. It's almost like the engineers at Canon understand how their cameras work better than anyone else.

[TTMartin]

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@Waddizzle wrote:

In Sports mode, the camera will typically drive aperture as wide open as it can, in order to achieve its' fast shutter speeds.  This can be a good thing, provided you are cognizant of benefits and drawbacks.  I would rather influence shutter speed by adjusting the ISO manually.  And, if "P" selects a shutter speed that is 1/focal length, then that would be a good thing with a long lens, which is typically used for shooting sports.

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This is incorrect on two fronts. As I already mentioned I check what Sports mode does on my XTi. As I stated it choose 1/500 f/5.6 and ISO 400. What I didn't disclose was that I had an f/2.8 lens on the camera at the time. So the camera didn't automatically go to the widest aperture, instead it chose f/5.6.

The second part is that with a in P mode with a 75-300 zoom lens, 1/focal length just doesn't give you fast enough shutter speeds for sports. On the wide end it would be subject motion blur city, and even at 300mm, 1/300 is barely acceptable for stopping action. 

Again the easiest and simplest way for a beginner to get successful sports photos is to use the Sports scene mode, until they fully understand what the camera is doing and why. 

[Waddizzle]

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@TTMartin wrote:

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@Waddizzle wrote:

In Sports mode, the camera will typically drive aperture as wide open as it can, in order to achieve its' fast shutter speeds.  This can be a good thing, provided you are cognizant of benefits and drawbacks.  I would rather influence shutter speed by adjusting the ISO manually.  And, if "P" selects a shutter speed that is 1/focal length, then that would be a good thing with a long lens, which is typically used for shooting sports.

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This is incorrect on two fronts. As I already mentioned I check what Sports mode does on my XTi. As I stated it choose 1/500 f/5.6 and ISO 400. What I didn't disclose was that I had an f/2.8 lens on the camera at the time. So the camera didn't automatically go to the widest aperture, instead it chose f/5.6.

The second part is that with a in P mode with a 75-300 zoom lens, 1/focal length just doesn't give you fast enough shutter speeds for sports. On the wide end it would be subject motion blur city, and even at 300mm, 1/300 is barely acceptable for stopping action. 

Again the easiest and simplest way for a beginner to get successful sports photos is to use the Sports scene mode, until they fully understand what the camera is doing and why. 

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You must have had bright sunshine.  I used an 85mm f/1.8 lens and it went straight for f/1.8 when focused on a subject 50 feet away on a cloudy day.  Shutter speed was 1/320 at ISO 400  I suppose camera behavior can vary widely, depending upon circumstances.

I recognize the value of AI Servo mode when it comes to shooitng moving subjects.  I recognize that continuous shooting is highly useful when it comes to shooting moving subjects.  But, I also recognize that most new users have limits.  As you and I have both pointed out, there are subtle nuances to understand about AI Servo mode.  It really ain't all that easy to use effectively.  The camera will track the closest subject to the camera, no matter what you want it to do.

Most new users simply turn on the camera, and start shooting pictures.  Point and shoot  They're not going to be concerned about shooting modes.  Most new users will forget about everything, except the power switch and the lens cap.  It takes most of them weeks and months to notice, understand, and actually use the viewfinder display.  It takes learning the switches and settings almost as long, too.

Yeah, they might use Sport mode today, and they'll probably wind up using it the next time they turn on the camera for the next couple of times they use it, too.  Case in point, look at all of the posts around here about people saying they changed some settings, don't know what they did or why, and don't know how to get the camera back to normal.  Until a new and inexperienced user can get better familiarized with the camera, they're much better off sticking to one mode, P, A, or CA.  I think P is the most instructive of the three.

[EDIT]  Yawn.  I'm shooting pictures of the moon tonight. 

[TTMartin]

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@Waddizzle wrote:

The camera will track the closest subject to the camera, no matter what you want it to do.

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NO!

When using Auto AF point selection and AIServo, the camera starts with and tries to continue tracking, what is detected by the center AF point when the AF is first activated (shutter button is depressed).

Auto AF point selection and AIServo starts out just like manually selecting the center AF point, the only difference is if you continue to half or whole press the shutter button, and the subject moves out from under the center AF point, the camera will use the other AF points to try and continue to track the subject.

[TTMartin]

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@Waddizzle wrote:

You must have had bright sunshine.  I used an 85mm f/1.8 lens and it went straight for f/1.8 when focused on a subject 50 feet away on a cloudy day.  Shutter speed was 1/320 at ISO 400  I suppose camera behavior can vary widely, depending upon circumstances.

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The Sunny 16 rule says you made that up.

Sunny 16 also includes Partly Sunny f/11, Cloudy f/8, and Dark Overcast f/5.6.

So 1/ISO on a Cloudy day or even a Dark Overcast day would not give you 1/320, f/1.8 and ISO 400.

[Waddizzle]

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@TTMartin wrote:

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@Waddizzle wrote:

You must have had bright sunshine.  I used an 85mm f/1.8 lens and it went straight for f/1.8 when focused on a subject 50 feet away on a cloudy day.  Shutter speed was 1/320 at ISO 400  I suppose camera behavior can vary widely, depending upon circumstances.

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The Sunny 16 rule says you made that up.

Sunny 16 also includes Partly Sunny f/11, Cloudy f/8, and Dark Overcast f/5.6.

So 1/ISO on a Cloudy day or even a Dark Overcast day would not give you 1/320, f/1.8 and ISO 400.

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I admit to probably reciting shutter and ISO incorrectly.  My point was the aperture.  In low light, it opens up as wide as it will go.

I have no intention of arguing that which is inarguable.  Fact, AI Servo mode is not for new users.  The mode doesn't even beep to let them know the camera has acquired a subject and locked focus.  The mode requires a bit more camera knowledge than what most new DSLR users have.  In fact, more than what most will ever have.

Bottom line.  Most people cannot track a subject with an AF point, not even with some practice.  The camera will quickly lose track of what the subject should or should not be.  Sorry, the average inexperienced use just simply cannot use AI Servo mode very well, not right out of the gate.  Effective use of AI Servo takes lots of practice, and and an intimate knowledge and familiarity of the sport. 

[ebiggs1]

Of course you are correct!

"... the average inexperienced use just simply cannot use AI Servo mode very well, ..."

Fact is not even experienced photographers use it very well either!  Also the 'fact is' AI-Servo works best when the subject is moving towards you. That's not always the case in sports shooting and new photographers may not know the little intricacies of AI-Servo.

[Waddizzle]

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@ebiggs1 wrote:

Of course you are correct!

"... the average inexperienced user just simply cannot use AI Servo mode very well, ..."

Fact is not even experienced photographers use it very well either!  Also the 'fact is' AI-Servo works best when the subject is moving towards you. That's not always the case in sports shooting and new photographers may not know the little intricacies of AI-Servo.

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I agree.  The "best fit" answer says to use "P" mode, although a better approach might be Sport mode, or a Creative mode.

[TTMartin]

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@Waddizzle wrote:

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@TTMartin wrote:

The Sunny 16 rule says you made that up.

Sunny 16 also includes Partly Sunny f/11, Cloudy f/8, and Dark Overcast f/5.6.

So 1/ISO on a Cloudy day or even a Dark Overcast day would not give you 1/320, f/1.8 and ISO 400.

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I admit to probably reciting shutter and ISO incorrectly.  My point was the aperture.  In low light, it opens up as wide as it will go.

I have no intention of arguing that which is inarguable.  Fact, AI Servo mode is not for new users.  The mode doesn't even beep to let them know the camera has acquired a subject and locked focus.  The mode requires a bit more camera knowledge than what most new DSLR users have.  In fact, more than what most will ever have.

Bottom line.  Most people cannot track a subject with an AF point, not even with some practice.  The camera will quickly lose track of what the subject should or should not be.  Sorry, the average inexperienced use just simply cannot use AI Servo mode very well, not right out of the gate.  Effective use of AI Servo takes lots of practice, and and an intimate knowledge and familiarity of the sport. 

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AIServo is for moving subjects, like you have when photographing sports. When to use One Shot or AIServo is based on the what you are photographing, not how much experience you have.

And I agree that when you use a manually selected single center AF point with AIServo, it is easy to lose track of your subject. That's why Canon engineers have Sports mode use both AIServo and Auto AF point selection so that the outer AF points can help out if you temporarily move the center AF point off the subject. 

I'd recommend that both you and the OP watch or rewatch these three videos of a presentation done by Canon's Rudy Winston

A Look at The Canon Autofocus System Part 1

A Look at The Canon Autofocus System Part 2

A Look at The Canon Autofocus System Part 3.