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mbs5380 · ‎06-08-2020

I'm curios and, frustratingly, Canon's documentation doesn't make things clear. I always take my photos in RAW mode and use Adobe Lightroom to edit. It seems clear that "auto-lighting optimizar" only applies to the CANON generated jpeg image and is thus irrelevent in Lightroom. It seems like the Lens aberration correction settings also only apply to CANON generated jpeg and are also irrelevent in Lightroom.

I'm confused about many of the other settings though. Long exposure noise reduction? High IS speed noise reduction? Highlight tone priority? Are any of these settings of any use when taking RAW photos only? Do the do anything to alter the RAW file, or are they only applied in the "develop" phase when creating a jpeg?

Peter · ‎06-09-2020

Long exposure noise reduction is raw file minus dark frame raw file. In my opinion more noise in shadows (but hot pixels removed). Lightroom removes hot pixels automatically (more or less) so you shouldn't need Long exposure noise reduction if you just want to remove bad pixels. DPP4 doesn't. If your target is to remove what looks like "amp glow" you will need a dark frame.
HTP, raw file but seems pointless. Seems to underexpose 1 stop. With the same settings in manual mode I could get the same DR. 1/100s f/8 and ISO 100 seems to be the same as 1/100s f8 and HTP ISO 200. I got the same DR when I last measured.

High ISO noise reduction, only jpeg but DPP will read the settings from the raw file metadata and apply a noise reduction.
ALO, only jpeg but DPP will read the settings from the raw file metadata and apply ALO.
Lens correction, only jpeg but DPP will read the settings from the raw file metadata and apply lens correction.
Picture style, only jpeg but DPP will read the settings from the raw file metadata and apply the Picture style.

All thumbnails in the raw file are affected by High ISO noise reduction, ALO, Lens correction and Picture style.

Other things good to know about:

ISO 100 and ISO L from your 6D II are the same when shooting raw (except thumbnails and some metadata)
M-RAW and S-RAW are already demosaiced.
The multi exposure feature (average) will give you, if you don't move the camera, a CR2 file with less noise but with the white balance already baked in. Not demosaiced and that is good.

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Peter · ‎06-09-2020

It is possible to take the dark frame yourself, yes. The same settings and the same temperature.
One free astro software is Siril. Take a look at some tutorials for it. A lot of stacking, dark frames etc. Also check the astro guru Roger Clark and his page. He has a more simple way of editing astro pictures.

About star eating and hot pixel removing, check the GIF file below. If the star is small enough to only affect one pixel in the Bayer filter, then it is possible it will be removed. My experience is that this normally isn't a problem.

mbs5380 · ‎06-09-2020

@Peter wrote:
It is possible to take the dark frame yourself, yes. The same settings and the same temperature.
One free astro software is Siril. Take a look at some tutorials for it. A lot of stacking, dark frames etc. Also check the astro guru Roger Clark and his page. He has a more simple way of editing astro pictures.

About star eating and hot pixel removing, check the GIF file below. If the star is small enough to only affect one pixel in the Bayer filter, then it is possible it will be removed. My experience is that this normally isn't a problem.

Okay. This is helpful.

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Which EOS 6D MarkII settings apply to RAW files vs JPEG?