Rebel SL1 image quality issues

[MotoArts]

Hello,
Since receiving my Rebel kit for Christmas when it came out years ago, I have been rather unimpressed with its still image quality. Generally speaking, all shots appear to be out of focus along with random color saturation issues. Admittedly, my knowledge of DSLR is very miniscule, having only shot 35mm (an A-1 purchased new in the 80's, LOL) and medium format many years ago. I enjoy motorsports photography mainly, but use this camera for standard family snapshots where quality isn't front and center to me.
I've dabbled only a little in the quest to clean up the (what I'll call latent) images with settings in the camera body, but have had little to no luck.
I next to never use it for video.

Images are not short or long focused. They can be somewhat cleaned up with a photo editor, but seemingly every one needs done and have never had an image that totally impressed me even afterwards. Same/similar results come from either the 18-55 and 75-300 Canon brand lenses, although the short one is generally better. I believe that I did not edit either of the 2 bottom pics shown that were taken with the long lens. Top one may have been edited, short lens used along with a little bit of fill flash. All 3 pics were shot ISO 100, 1/60sec. shutter priority. I've tried all of the basics carried over from my A-1 days... program, shutter priority, aperture priority, full manual exposure, manual focus, ISO change... no discernible difference. Sharpness, color balance, brightness and contrast are issues.

My guess is that I'm missing something in basic setup of the body. I understand focal speak, but the electronic part has me lost.
Is there a software update available?
I haven't ruled out the "need" for a more professional, more advanced, newer body to get what I'm looking for.
Any help would be greatly appreciated!
Thanks.

[deebatman316]

Are these pictures taken in JPEG or RAW. If JPEG set the quality to large. I recommend shooting in the RAW format. Along with using Canon's free editing software. Called Canon DPP or Digital Photo Professional. A RAW File is not viewable alone. It must be converted to JPEG or some other format to be viewable. I also recommend resetting the camera back to factory default. Including custom functions they're NOT reset when you do a factory reset.

[Anonymous]

I think photos 2 and 3 need more contrast in the image. In the camera is a Picture Style menu where you can customize image settings such as contrast. The same corrections can be applied with a photo editor out of camera. But if you are trying to make a better out of camera photo, the Picture Style menu is the place to start.

[FloridaDrafter]

Hello, MotoArts, and welcome to the Forum!

"I haven't ruled out the "need" for a more professional, more advanced, newer body to get what I'm looking for."

And that may well be your best option. To be honest, I am not surprised at the IQ of your images given the lenses you are using. The shots aren't terrible, but could be better with more capable glass. The SL1 is a bit long in the tooth, but still capable. The EF 18-55 f/3.5-5.6 IS STM is a fairly capable lens, but the EF 75-300mm f/4-5.6 is probably, IMHO, one of Canons worse. It is the 1st iteration of that series (I think) and lacks IS, but that isn't all that makes it undesirable (I won't go into all that). I also noticed that in 2 of the 3 images that you shared, the focus point is at the bottom of the AF point array and the EXIF data suggests that you manually placed it there. I would suggest that you use the center point. I would also up the shutter speed which may mean upping the ISO as well to maintain your desired aperture. All of your examples were at 1/60th, that's pretty slow and probably added to the softness of the shots.

Screen shots from DPP 4 to show your active focus points, the red rectangles.

I would strongly suggest looking at some of the newer R series cameras and RF glass. But if you aren't ready to do that, I would at least take a look at the EF 70-300mm f/4-5.6 IS USM II ($599 U.S.), it should work well with the SL1. You can also work on your focus technique, maybe switch to one point without servo. I would also start using Raw and download Canons free Digital Photo Professional to spiff up your shots. All three examples you've posted could have been made a lot better using it, maybe not focus, but sharpening, saturation, color tones, contrast. All of this can be adjusted in camera styles, as mentioned by 5DIV, but you have more control in post editing, AND, it's quite satisfying and enjoyable messing with it and bringing some life into your photos 🙂

Newton

[Tronhard]

Like you, I started my photography with the Canon A-1 and Nikon F3, bodies.  In some ways I still shoot with techniques that served me well.  Given you said you are not familiar with some of the digital aspects of photography, I hope you will consider some points that may improve things for you.

By default, focus systems use a matrix of points, and the camera tends to focus on the one that finds something closest to your camera.  The problem with that is that it might now work for what you really want to focus on, or even cover your range of subjects if you are using an open aperture, rendering a shallower Depth of Field (DoF).

So, here is how I have set up my systems for the thick end of 20 years, and for me, this has worked well for all formats of photography but wildlife in particular.

I use a single point of focus, which I have set to the centre of the camera.  I then disable the shutter button from enabling focus, this leaves the AF button on the back to set focus - this is called Back Button focus and for many photographers (but not all) is a game changer because it allows one to separate the focusing from the shutter actuation.  I also set the focus system to Servo.  I then set single point metering in the centre and assign that to the * button on the back of the camera.

For lots of info on BBF, see this link and watch some videos:
(5) back button focus - YouTube

This is how it works.  I find my subject, to which I point the centre of the camera and tap the rear AF button - if I tap it then focus will lock but not change, but if I continue to press it, the focus will follow the object I selected.  I then find something that has a mid-tone in the light range and tap the * button to lock exposure, I then compose my image and press the shutter button, to get the image.  It takes a while to get used to, but once it becomes familiar it is very fast and extremely precise.

IF you decide to stick with your current camera:
I also agree with Newton - the EF75-300 range of optics IMHO, is pretty dismal - all of them.  So, for general purposes I would recommend the following:

For a lower investment:

If you want to use just one lens most of the time, or even to replace the 18-55, then the 18-135 STM or USM lens is a great choice.  It will offer much more range without having to change lenses, but can be used well to complement the EF 70-300 that Newton and I both respect.  For more reach, the EF 70-300 IS USM MkII - a brilliant optic, with good build, and stabilization.  I did an analysis of the selection of the various versions of this (sans the very expensive DO version), which you can reference here: 70-300 Canon Lenses In-Depth Analysis - Canon Community

If you keep the 18-55 lens, the EF-S 55-250 IS STM lens is an excellent optic that is cheap and has image stabilization - something you definitely want in a telephoto lens.

If you change your camera:
Since we don't know your budget, it is challenging to be too definitive in suggesting a replacement overall, however, I would recommend considering the following for your purposes.

The RF 8 is a full-frame camera that has the same sensor as the much higher-end R6MKII camera, and features like subject tracking, eye tracking and a lot of other features.  You need to do your own homework and research what features work for you - we can suggest what we think, but you're making the investment.

A single optic to go with that would be the RF 24-240 IS USM.  I have a fair bit of expensive L series glass, but loving using this super zoom lens for its flexibility - really for many situations, it's all I need.

[MotoArts]

I have many hundreds of shots that are very similar in quality to these 2. Even with editing, they are unacceptable to me most times. I have not, however, used any of the Picture Style menu choices that you mentioned. These may be what is holding me back, along with changing from JPG to RAW format.

These are the things that are all new to me, things that aren't a part of good 'ol film photography 😊

Thank you!

[MotoArts]

Thank you for the welcome!

Over the years of dabbling with this camera, most all of the out-of-camera shots that have irked me have come from the longer lens. Not all, but probably 90+%. Being the digital noob, I just kind of assumed that this setup would yield out of the box shots to knock your socks off. Been up and down the standard "film" settings, AV, TV, M, P... and all yield the same flat, odd contrast and color. Focus, to me, isn't much the issue. Tried that manually, too. For these submitted shots, I chose the 1/60 TV to retain the camera choosing a high f/stop, considering the subject of the day. Have tried the other way as well, same result... so I kinda ruled out focus an/or DoF as the thorn in my side.

A note regarding the red squares also. If I changed it somewhere along the line, I don't see how to change it back in the settings.

I do notice consistently soft overall pics with the 75-300 vs the little guy. 

I'd really like to explore and exhaust the capabilities of this body and/or lenses. My worries of the 75-300 lens being an issue may be true, along with basic training on digital equipment. If I can't truly get what I need, then I'll move on. Knowing that my cellphone takes WAY higher quality shots out of the gate that require literally zero editing irks the daylights out of me!

[deebatman316]

Yes it is true. All of Canon's EF 75-300mm lineup is if low quality. They were all soft and had okay AF. Most lack IS or Ring Type USM AF Motors. If you're looking to replace that lens. Look in to the EF 70-300mm F/4-5.6 IS II USM lens. 

[MotoArts]

It was set to JPG, as I do not know what the RAW format is and what it does.

I see in the settings that it gives a choice for RAW only, or RAW/JPG. Advantages or disadvantages to either?

[deebatman316]

RAW takes the image straight from the image sensor without any kind of processing. Your camera has to do work to convert the image from RAW to JPEG. If the camera is set to JPEG. Which means you are more limited to edit your photos. With a RAW File you can do as much editing as you can and not ruin the picture. This is because it's the raw image from the image sensor without any kind of processing.