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New to the T3i

Copperxray
Apprentice

Does the T3i need to be ON when changing lenses?  I been using the EX-S 18-55 IS lens that came with the camera.  It also came with the EF 75-300 III lens.  The camera was off so I changed the lens out for the first time, turned the camera on.  The camera did not auto focus the lens (the lens was in AF mode), the aperature was F00 did not move.  So I turned the camera off>Took the lens off>Turn camera back on, put lens back on and everything worked fine after that.  Which is why I'm curious to know if it's by design to have the camera on when changing lenses.

 

While on the subject of lenses, i want to get one more zoom in the middle area.  Interested in the EF 28-135 IS USM, or the EF-S 18-135 IS STM, or hoping something in the range of 28-105 EF IS.  Canon preferred, but open to other brands.  Short of $$$, so nothing over $550...

 

THANKS,

CX

2 REPLIES 2

Samsen
Enthusiast

1- May be on attaching lens, contacts didn't make a solid connection. 

Is this only one time event or something that happens often.

If one time, I ignore it.

If often check the contact pins and clean them.

 

2- You really donot need an intermediate lens of the kind you mention, considering what you already have.

If you really like to improve on either extrem (Ultra wide angle or Tele) side, then look more into your possibilities.

Otherwise I would consider a lens with large F stop to give  me ability to shoot in low light. 

-A 50mm F1.8 is a very good choice at about $100.

-A prime small lens such as Canon's 40mm F2.8 pan cake, may be another good lens in terms of light weight to travel and carry capability. About $150.

-A macro lens like Canon 60mm 2.8 that is at upper boarder of your budge price but oppens the world of Macro to you.

- A sharper lens such as Tamron SP 28-75mm XR Di.

All give you something more beyond what your current glass provides. You need to see your needs in picture taking to figure out your priority and which way to go but your proposed lens, will not give much. Also remember one thing. Most good quality Canon lenses will retain their price for a good resale. Consider gathering fund at this time instead of spending. Then look into L class lenses. May be 17-40L or 70-200 non-IS L. You will pay more initially but then Image Quality (IQ) will make you not to look back at anything but L class.

ScottyP
Authority

Hi,

I have a T3i.  The camera definitely does NOT need to be "on" when you change lenses.  Most people would have the camera off, actually.  Something else corrected the problem; either turning the camera on and off, or re-attaching the lens better.

 

I would not go for a "middle zoom".  If I were you, I would focus (no pun intended) instead on getting higher quality glass in whatever range you use most.  The key would be getting a lens that maintains a low aperture throughout its whole focal range, and one that has superior image quality to what you already have, so that there is a real upgrade you are getting for your money.

 

If you shoot a lot more with the 18-55, you might consider getting a better zoom like the EF-S 17-55 f/2.8 IS.  It has better image quality than the 18-55 kit, but most importantly, it has a wider f/2.8 aperture along its entire focal range so you can shoot in low light, and you can get a shallow depth of field (background blurred and subject popping out of it).

 

You could also get a nice "prime" (fixed-focal length/non-zooming) lens.  Comparatively inexpensive Primes have better image quality than nearly any zoom made, especially the kit zooms.  Fewer design compromises, fewer pieces of glass.  They also have very wide apertures.  On your T3i a 50mm prime is a perfect portrait lens.  The 50 f/1.8 "the nifty fifty" is only about $100.00, and it is actually very good.  For about $350.00 you could get the 50mm f/1.4 which is maybe a bit better optically (though not a lot), but which has a much more solid construction.

 

Good Luck!

 

If you use the 75-300 lens most (unlikely) then maybe you work towards upgrading it instead, but higher quality glass at long lengths is a more expensive proposition.  You sounded like you were not gravitating towards the long end anyway?

 

 

 

 

Scott

Canon 5d mk 4, Canon 6D, EF 70-200mm L f/2.8 IS mk2; EF 16-35 f/2.8 L mk. III; Sigma 35mm f/1.4 "Art" EF 100mm f/2.8L Macro; EF 85mm f/1.8; EF 1.4x extender mk. 3; EF 24-105 f/4 L; EF-S 17-55mm f/2.8 IS; 3x Phottix Mitros+ speedlites

Why do so many people say "FER-tographer"? Do they take "fertographs"?
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