03-27-2019 03:35 PM
I have a problem where lights (taillights and even inside on car gauge dials, the light is not red but purple. Anyone have any idea what could be the problem? I am using 5d MkII with 17-40, white balance is automatic. I am shooting hundrets of cars and editing one by one is a big job. Thanks for your anwsers in advance.
03-28-2019 10:22 AM
@kvbarkley wrote:Then why did the video not have the problem?
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Ah ... good point, I hadn't looked at the video
03-28-2019 10:33 AM
03-28-2019 12:14 PM
@kvbarkley wrote:Then why did the video not have the problem?
Most Red LED's do not have much ultraviolet, it is the white LED's that use phosphors.
Maybe the video was taken with a UV filter?
03-28-2019 12:29 PM
No, withouth any filter. It is not the same car, 3 years older. Also LED-s. Since the problem is with the new cars, it could be different LED-s, stronger or something.
03-29-2019 02:50 AM
@VektorCRO wrote:No, withouth any filter. It is not the same car, 3 years older. Also LED-s. Since the problem is with the new cars, it could be different LED-s, stronger or something.
You need a CPL filter.
If you have a CPL filter, then try this short experiment. Hold one up, and look at your LED TV screen, or computer monitor. Now begin to slowly turn the filter ring until you have turned it in a complete circle. Viola! Your problem can be solved.
03-29-2019 06:30 AM
@Waddizzle wrote:
If you have a CPL filter, then try this short experiment. Hold one up, and look at your LED TV screen, or computer monitor. Now begin to slowly turn the filter ring until you have turned it in a complete circle. Viola! Your problem can be solved.
This works with LED TV screens or computer monitor screens because they have an inbuilt polarizing filter, sadly it does not work with direct LED lighting.
03-30-2019 03:26 AM
@Ray-uk wrote:
@Waddizzle wrote:
If you have a CPL filter, then try this short experiment. Hold one up, and look at your LED TV screen, or computer monitor. Now begin to slowly turn the filter ring until you have turned it in a complete circle. Viola! Your problem can be solved.This works with LED TV screens or computer monitor screens because they have an inbuilt polarizing filter, sadly it does not work with direct LED lighting.
You are probably correct. I thought solid state light sources produced light that was already polarized. Don’t they add filters to TV monitors to “sharpen” the image coming from the emitters?
I understand what you are saying, but I do not see how a CPL would not be a good solution for cutting the glare and intense iight from solid state light sources.
03-31-2019 01:38 PM
@kvbarkley wrote:It would not matter if they are blown if they were pure red, it appears they have a lot of blue, which is not blown out, but disproportionally increased.
This ^^
As I look at the image and inspect the pixels, the "magenta" color (that should be red) shows me the red channel is blown ... but the green and blue channel are not blown. This allowed the camera to continue to collect more "blue" but it was capped at the "red" limit and this resulted in a noticeable hue shift.
Even in the instrument display has this issue. Many of the "white" areas are reading 255, 255, 255. The highlights are blown.
Other comments: I noticed the OP mentions using "automatic white balance". White balance is only applied if shooting and saving as JPEG (it is not applied if saving as RAW but it will record the choice in the meta-data so that post-processing software could apply the setting).
In any case, "automatic" white balance is notorious among photographers because you never quite know what the camera will do. If shooting JPEG, better to set white balance specific to the scene.
ALSO... these appear to be product photos meant to advertise actual products for sale.
I am particularly fussy in "product" photos. My bias is that consumers deserve true color representation and it should be accurate. I have had numerous situations where I ordered a product based on color -- but upon delivery of the product, the color wasn't even remotely close to the online photo.
The only way to do this ... is to use a proper color-managed workflow. This means the color accuracy is calibrated at time of capture and at time of any editing/adjustment. If physical prints were produced, then that would become part of the workflow that also needs to be color-managed.
For product photos ... use a photography gray card and a color-checker (like an X-Rite ColorChecker card). This allows supporting computer software (e.g. Lightroom supports it) to "profile" the color accuracy and adjust the image so that your colors are bang-on accurate (as long as the image data isn't clipped from over-exposure).
Also color-calibrate the computer monitor using a device such as an X-Rite i1 Display, etc. This way you can be sure the colors are accurate on your display and you aren't mis-adjusting color to get it to look correct on your display, but not correct on other displays. (If someone else doesn't have a color calibrated display and they are unhappy about colors, that's on them to correct their own display.)
03-31-2019 04:15 PM
Hers is another example.Left light is purple and right red. Flash is bounced of the celing....
03-31-2019 08:35 PM
@VektorCRO wrote:Hers is another example.Left light is purple and right red. Flash is bounced of the celing....
Are the car's lights even turned on?
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