Teleconverter Pros and Cons

[mjschocken]

I have a Canon Eos 80D and a Canon 100 - 400 mm F4.5 - 5.6 L IS USM lens and use them mostly for bird photography.  I think the 400 mm is not enough to capture small birds that tend to be skittish of humans.  Admittedly, I have lens envy when I see birds photographed with a 600 or 800 mm lens.  In generally, I really like the lens that I have but want to consider getting a teleconverter, at least a 1.4X.  I know about giving up an F stop but it's less clear to me about the effects of the teleconverter on focus points (I have 1, 9 and 45 on the camera) and on autofocus.  I would also like to know your thoughts on the pros and particularly the cons of using one.  Appreciate your feedback but if I'm asking a question that's already been asked, please let me know and I'll try to find the discussion.  Thanks.

[TTMartin]

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[Waddizzle]

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@mjschocken wrote:

Thanks much for your comments and for an illustrative image with the lens and extender.  You've told me everything I wanted to hear as I do have the second, more recent version of the Canon telephoto zoom lens.  I also know a few guys who have the Sigma 150 - 600 mm lens and so I was also interested in your comments about the Canon versus Sigma/Tamron lens and their image quality.  Again, thanks.

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I chose the Sigma 150-600mm "C" over the comparable Tamron for one reason.  Sigma dock.  If you take the time to carefully calibrate your lens, you will be rewarded with really great photos. 

And, I do mean take the time when doing focus adjustments.  I spent about three weeks testing and re-testing until I came up with a consistent set of average results.  Much of that is due to the number of calibration points [16] in the Sigma.  I finally found the best way to test it was outdoors, in bright sunlight, aiming at the lines of empty parking spaces in a large parking lot.  The lines of the parking spaces offered a quick and dirty way to measure distances accurately enough for the calibration testing.

[TTMartin]

With the 7D Mk II, I use AF point expansion for birds in flight with EF 100-400 IS II and the EF 1.4X extender III. While the 7D Mk II is limited to the center AF point, it allows spot AF, single point AF, and AF point expansion modes with that center point.

[Waddizzle]

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@TTMartin wrote:
With the 7D Mk II, I use AF point expansion for birds in flight with EF 100-400 IS II and the EF 1.4X extender III. While the 7D Mk II is limited to the center AF point, it allows spot AF, single point AF, and AF point expansion modes with that center point.

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I have had the best success doing the same thing, which does not mean I am good at BIF.  Something tells me I hever will be good at BIF.  As a subject moves, you should occasionally see some of the AF expansion points light up, as the subject moves out of the center of the frame.

What are your shutter speeds for BIF compared to your more stationary shots?  The higher your focal length, the faster your shutter speed will need to be cancel out camera motion.  While One Shot focusing is great for stationary shots.  Using AI Servo is almost a MUST for moving subjects, especially if the distance between you and the subject is changing.

What IS mode is the lens set to?  This setting can make a HUGE difference when it comes to sharpness.  Not unless you're shooting subjects moving in directions that are known ahead of time [like a passing race car], then I suggest sticking to Mode 1.  I would not recommend Modes 2 or 3 if you are not using AI Servo and continuous drive mode, either.

The AF tracking modes take some time to learn, and practice to master.  Don't forget to keep your BBF button depressed when shooting in AI Servo and continuous drive mode, if you have removed AF from the shutter button.  

[mjschocken]

Waddizzle,

I do everything that you said in your response.  I generally shoot at 1/2000 for BIF.  I am in Mode 1 for IS.  I do use the AI Servo drive.  I do keep the shutter botton half-way to maintain the focusing as the bird moves.  The issue I have sometimes is that I can't pick up the bird in sharp focus or sometimes I have it and lose it.  This has been a problem sometimes when I didn't have the extender but it seemed worse with the extender although admittedly I only had one day with the extender to try it out.  I just thought the extender slowed down the autofocus with a lens that seemed to autofocus pretty quickly.  If I see the bird from relatively far off, I can focus on it.  It's when I see it suddenly and it's close, I can't always lock on it.  I think part of it is practice.  Anyway, I'll be using the extender over the next few weeks a lot so I'll report back when I know more about how to handle the extender.  Thanks for taking the time to respond.

[Waddizzle]

"I do everything that you said in your response.  I generally shoot at 1/2000 for BIF.  I am in Mode 1 for IS.  I do use the AI Servo drive.  I do keep the shutter botton half-way to maintain the focusing as the bird moves.  The issue I have sometimes is that I can't pick up the bird in sharp focus or sometimes I have it and lose it.  "

If you are using BBF, then you need to keep the BBF button pressed, not the shutter.  Normally, focusing is removed from the shutter button when you set up BBF.

Tracking a bird in flight isn't easy.  I admit that I'm not good at it.  It takes lots of practice when you're using super telephoto focal lengths.  You need to know the habits of the bird, so that you can anticipate changes of direction, too.

I will usually get sharper photos using "One Shot" auto focusing, and taking advantage of Depth-Of-Field.  I have found AI Servo can be my ally just as easily as it can be my enemy.  It is very easy to lose tracking on your subject, and lock focus on the background. 

If you are using Lightroom, there is a plug-in that shows you active AF points.  It can also show you which AF points were selected, which points were active, and which points had locked focus.  I have found it very useful in documenting how well I can track a subject.

[TTMartin]

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@mjschocken wrote:

I do everything that you said in your response.  I generally shoot at 1/2000 for BIF.  I am in Mode 1 for IS.  I do use the AI Servo drive.  I do keep the shutter botton half-way to maintain the focusing as the bird moves.  The issue I have sometimes is that I can't pick up the bird in sharp focus or sometimes I have it and lose it.  This has been a problem sometimes when I didn't have the extender but it seemed worse with the extender although admittedly I only had one day with the extender to try it out.  I just thought the extender slowed down the autofocus with a lens that seemed to autofocus pretty quickly.  If I see the bird from relatively far off, I can focus on it.  It's when I see it suddenly and it's close, I can't always lock on it.  I think part of it is practice.  Anyway, I'll be using the extender over the next few weeks a lot so I'll report back when I know more about how to handle the extender.  Thanks for taking the time to respond.

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Try using Mode 3 image stabilization. Using Mode 1 while moving the camera, to initially acquire focus or to track a moving subject actually fights against what you are trying to do.

edit: I do NOT use BBF,  instead I reprogram the AF ON button to AF OFF, so I can suspend focus temporarily. Like when a bird is behind branches) and I want to manually focus, or maintain focus on a particular spot. That way I only occasionally have to press both the shutter and another button, rather than most of the time pressing two buttons for the few times I want to suspend focus. 

[Waddizzle]

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@TTMartin wrote:

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@mjschocken wrote:

Waddizzle,

I do everything that you said in your response.  I generally shoot at 1/2000 for BIF.  I am in Mode 1 for IS.  I do use the AI Servo drive.  I do keep the shutter botton half-way to maintain the focusing as the bird moves.  The issue I have sometimes is that I can't pick up the bird in sharp focus or sometimes I have it and lose it.  This has been a problem sometimes when I didn't have the extender but it seemed worse with the extender although admittedly I only had one day with the extender to try it out.  I just thought the extender slowed down the autofocus with a lens that seemed to autofocus pretty quickly.  If I see the bird from relatively far off, I can focus on it.  It's when I see it suddenly and it's close, I can't always lock on it.  I think part of it is practice.  Anyway, I'll be using the extender over the next few weeks a lot so I'll report back when I know more about how to handle the extender.  Thanks for taking the time to respond.

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Try using Mode 3 image stabilization. Using Mode 1 while moving the camera, to initially acquire focus or to track a moving subject actually fights against what you are trying to do.

edit: I do NOT use BBF,  instead I reprogram the AF ON button to AF OFF, so I can suspend focus temporarily. Like when a bird is behind branches) and I want to manually focus, or maintain focus on a particular spot. That way I only occasionally have to press both the shutter and another button, rather than most of the time pressing two buttons for the few times I want to suspend focus. 

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As with many things, the exact opposite is true.  Using Mode 3 while not moving the camera fights against you, just as much as using Mode 1 when the camera is moving. 

If you are using AI Servo on quickly moving subjects, then use Mode 3, otherwise I use Mode 1 when am not moving the camera when I acquire focus, which is most of the time.  Mode 1 is designed for general camera shake, while Mode 3 is optimized for panning.

There is no one right way, or wrong way  What the camera is doing, what type of movement, when you press the shutter should determine which IS mode is best to use.  Another factor to consider is whether or not you are hand holding, or using some sort of support.  You have to anticipate your shooting conditions, and set the camera accordingly.

Most of the time I'm using a tripod.  Most of my subjects are stationary when I initially acquire focus.  I like to pre-focus whenever I can.  I try to keep shutter speed high enough, at least 1/1000, to minimize camera shake and movement, even if it means raising ISO to as high as 800.

As far as using, or not using, BBF goes, I suppose a lot of it comes from how you might hold the camera.  It's a personal choice, that you would have to make.  My left hand is under the camera, supporting its' weight from below.  BBF also gives my thumb something to do, besides brushing up against the <AE LOCK> button and causing a few bad exposures.  😄

I'm not good at half pressing the shutter and moving the camera.  I tend to press the shutter all the way the moment I begin moving the camera.  This usually happens before I can acquire focus on the subject.  Also, I can take a photo faster with BBF than without it.  When I pre-focus, the shutter begins to fire the moment I press the shutter, instead of momentarily pausing to acquire focus before it fires the shutter.

[TTMartin]

I do use a Monopod, with a Manfrotto 234RC Tilt Head for Monopods, with Quick Release.

The Manfrotto 234RC is only rated for 4.5 lbs, but, unlike with a tripod, I never have the camera sitting on it unsupported. I use it for the quick release and it allows the camera to tilt upwards and downwards. Any rotation is done with the entire monopod. 

In conjunction with a OptecUSA sling strap, use the monopod as a hiking stick with the camera at my side. When I'm ready to shoot, I attach the camera to the monopod and shoot away.