Overexposed backgrounds - T7 & SL1

tjstringer53 — Tue, 26 Dec 2023 21:30:54 GMT

Hello. I have a Rebel T7 and an SL1 camera body, along with a 18-55 kit lens and a 24 mm pancake lens. When I photographing people on a sunny day, sometimes the people are properly exposed but the background is very overexposed, sort of washed out. Any thoughts? Thank you!

Re: Overexposed backgrounds - T7 & SL1

rs-eos — Tue, 26 Dec 2023 22:45:10 GMT

No current camera can capture the entirety of a very high dynamic range scene in a single image. Where high dynamic means a huge difference in the quantity of light between the darkest shadows in the scene and the brightest areas in the scene.

When capturing subjects outdoors such that you want most of the scene to be captured, you can use fill flash to add extra light to the subject while ensuring the background is not overexposed. Though it's sometimes better to also seek out shaded areas or just less high dynamic scenes in general.

If what you are capturing isn't moving (e.g. a landscape), you can use a tripod and then capture at least 3 or perhaps 5 images, then composite together in post. e.g. if capturing 3 images, the first will expose things correctly for the brightest parts of the scene. The second image typically exposing for your subject. And the third exposing for shadows.

Re: Overexposed backgrounds - T7 & SL1

Tronhard — Wed, 27 Dec 2023 02:43:24 GMT

Sunny days are a bit of a trap. It might seem like a good idea to photograph people in bright sunshine, but the dynamic range - i.e. the difference between bright and dark areas of your image, will be too great for the camera to capture. Stops or EV's (Exposure Values), are each either a doubling of halving of light intensity, they are the common currency of exposure and appear in Shutter Speeds, Aperture and ISO values. While we can see between 20 and 24 Stops (human sight varies quite considerably), most cameras can barely deal with more than 13.

There are several possible solutions:
1. If exposing for the whole scene with Evaluative metering, which is the default mode of most Canon cameras, pop up the flash and use it to fill in the light onto your subject - thus reducing the DR. Alternatively, use a white coloured material - even white paper, to form a reflector to direct some light onto them and thus reduce shadow and thus the dynamic range.

2. If that is not practical or desirable, move your subjects into shadowed areas - within the shadow of structures or trees, for example. That will also stop them from squinting in the bright light, and they can take off any sunglasses. This is my preferred method. I use spot focus and spot metering, with both assigned to back buttons. This again reduces the DR but this time by moving the light on the subjects closer to that of the surrounds.
The extreme example of this is to have a very dark background and expose for their faces.

In the following examples, the first picture is of several taken of a couple wanted a casual photo of them on a ferry trip on a really, really bright day, so I placed them in a shaded area of the boat that still allowed some indication of being on a ferry on a sunny day. Even so, there was obvious shade on their faces, but that echoes the actual conditions without blowing out the exposure on the background or under-exposing their faces. (BTW, there was no colour imbalance, they were both quite burnt from being in Auckland's brutal sun the day before!). I didn't actually use this one because the male had his sun glasses on.
In essence, what I have tried to do is reduce the degree of dynamic range between my subjects and the background, by reducing the light levels in which they are located, and then metering for them within that context.
EOS 7D, EF 15-85 IS USM@29mm, f/6.3, 1/320sec, ISO-200
In the second image of a Canadian First Nations dancer, I positioned myself so that there was a black backdrop behind him, and used spot focus on his eyes, and spot metering on his face to get the exposure right. The black background really made him stand out - again BB Focus and Metering. Thus, I have made the subject by far the brightest element in the image and shot to make that element correctly exposed and letting the background go to black, or just very dark. We still know the subject is in bright light, but that environmental element no longer dominates the scene - the subject does.
EOS 60D, EF-S 15-85 IS USM @ 61mm, f/6.3, 1/400sec, ISO-160

I used a similar technique for this Māori dancer, I wanted the dramatic contrast to highlight her striking looks and dignity. It was just on midday in high summer, so the contrast was really brutal - arguably the worst conditions possible, but that was when the performance was scheduled so I had to work with it. The location was in the forecourt of the Auckland Art Gallery. By allowing the background, which was in deep shade, to be underexposed to almost black, it made her really pop and provided a dramatic contrast with the black costume and silver highlights. So, again I used spot focus on her eyes, and spot metering on her face, and let the background go to black.
Canon 60D, EF-S 55-250@250mm, f/7.1, 1/800sec, ISO-200

Other references: Videos by Sean Tucker:

Re: Overexposed backgrounds - T7 & SL1

stevet1 — Wed, 27 Dec 2023 03:16:20 GMT

tjstringer53,

In addition to the excellent advice from others, another trick that some photographers use is to position your subject in front of a bush or a flowering tree or something that does not include the sky at all.

That way, your camera is not trying to also meter off the bright light of the background.

Steve Thomas

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Overexposed backgrounds - T7 & SL1

Re: Overexposed backgrounds - T7 & SL1

Re: Overexposed backgrounds - T7 & SL1

Re: Overexposed backgrounds - T7 & SL1