topic Upgrading my Rebel T7 to a mirrorless R7? R8? R6 Mk II?.. HELP! in Gear Guide

Upgrading my Rebel T7 to a mirrorless R7? R8? R6 Mk II?.. HELP!

m_chur — Thu, 25 Sep 2025 17:35:34 GMT

As the title states, I am upgrading my camera body. Currently own a Rebel T7 with these lenses

EF-S 18-55mm f/3.5-5.6 IS II
EF 75-300mm f/4-5.6 III
Canon EF 70-200mm f/2.8 L USM
Tamron SP 24-70mm F/2.8 USD 82 DI VC SILENT DRIVE CANON EF

I plan to keep these lenses and use them on a mirrorless body with an adapter. I am no pro, but I really want good-quality pictures. Mainly shooting baseball, softball, cheer, and basketball, with the potential to shoot football. (Jr. Pro, middle school, and eventually high school sports.) I also want to do portraits, but I will shoot more sports than portraits. Games I shoot are typically played at night or in harsh gym lighting.

I am looking at the R7, R8, and even the EOS R6 Mark II. The R6 is a bit out of budget currently, so I am hoping to either find one used or refurbished if that's the route I need to go. What are your thoughts?

Re: Upgrading my Rebel T7 to a mirrorless R7? R8? R6 Mk II?.. HELP!

deebatman316 — Thu, 25 Sep 2025 18:14:19 GMT

What features are you looking for exactly. The lenses you listed can work with an adapter. But don’t expect these older lenses to work with 100% compatibility. Since you have older lenses a lot of the highly advanced AF system features are not available. Such as high fps shooting. Also some of the lenses you mentioned use already very slow AF motors. Which doesn’t make them ideal for sports. Then some lenses are not good optically. Or when used on Full Frame camera such as the EOS R8. The camera will automatically be put into crop mode reducing megapixels significantly. For instance the EOS R8 has 24.2 megapixels in Full Frame mode. But in APS-C mode it can only produce 9.6 megapixel images. Which is lower than your current EOS Rebel T7. The lenses you have can work but the camera is limited by the older lens’ hardware. Trying to adapt a lens from 1995 will have limitations when being used on a newer camera. The technology wasn’t there to begin with so the camera has to limit its useable features. Also some of your lenses lack stabilization which is very helpful in low light. Especially when shooting sports with a telephoto lens. Also note 3rd Party lens compatibility on the 3rd Party manufacturer. Canon cannot ensure compatibility with a 3rd Party manufacturer’s product. So 3rd Party compatibility can be hit or miss.

Re: Upgrading my Rebel T7 to a mirrorless R7? R8? R6 Mk II?.. HELP!

m_chur — Thu, 25 Sep 2025 18:17:33 GMT

I guess I don't know what I need, and that's why I am lost on what to do. I assumed the kit lenses are not ideal for sports. Since I am just getting started (and just taking pictures of my kids), I bought the 70-200mm and 24-70 on eBay hoping it would be what I needed since both lenses were decent deals. Sounds like I messed up all the way around on that one.

Re: Upgrading my Rebel T7 to a mirrorless R7? R8? R6 Mk II?.. HELP!

shadowsports — Thu, 25 Sep 2025 19:00:49 GMT

Greetings,

In addition to the type of photography you do, we need to have a budget $$$ in order to make meaningful recommendations. The R6mKII would offer the most features and value for the type of photography you want to do.

@deebatman317 has already pointed out possible compatibility and performance issues using older glass with a newer body. In many cases, lenses can be adapted successfully, but you may find that some (depending on age or brand) will perform differently or better than others.

If you're wanting to save a little money, consider Canon refurbished. Refurbished products come with the same 1-year warranty as new but at a significantly lower cost.

Re: Upgrading my Rebel T7 to a mirrorless R7? R8? R6 Mk II?.. HELP!

deebatman316 — Thu, 25 Sep 2025 19:12:44 GMT

I have pinged my colleague @wq9nsc he’s a sports photographer. The EF-S 18-55mm F/3.5-5.6 IS II lens is an old lens and uses an old slow AF motor that dates back to 1992. This AF motor has been retired by Canon. That particular version includes Image Stabilization (IS) to counteract camera shake. Now that lens is designed for APS-C cameras. It can work on a Full Frame EOS R series camera. But the camera will switch to APS-C mode reducing megapixels greatly. Now the EF 75-300mm F/4-5.6 III lens is an old film era lens not know for its optical quality. In fact all versions of that lens were poor optically. They all lack Image Stabilization and use slow AF motors. Now the EF 70-200mm F/2.8L USM lens was released in 1995. The first version of the lens didn’t include Image Stabilization. IS would be featured in newer stabilized versions in later years. Now this lens uses a Ring Type USM AF motor which is know for fast AF. But since it’s an older generation of the technology. It doesn’t support newer features found in the EOS R series. Such as slow focus transitions or smooth aperture changes. Instead you’ll notice jumps for each aperture setting. Also this lens is NOT capable of high fps shooting. This is due to the lens’ aperture motor not being fast enough to stop down for 12+ fps that Mirrorless cameras are capable of. When this lens was released no camera at the time could shoot at that rate of speed. Now the Tamron is an older 3rd Party lens that may have compatibility issues with newer cameras. That lens was released in 2012 and it can be hit or miss with compatibility. Some older Tamron lenses have problems on newer cameras. Who knows what the compatibility status of a given 3rd Party lens without testing it.

Re: Upgrading my Rebel T7 to a mirrorless R7? R8? R6 Mk II?.. HELP!

m_chur — Thu, 25 Sep 2025 19:17:22 GMT

I typically do buy refurbished! I would like to keep my spending around $1500. I do have wiggle room, but if I can accomplish what I want with something in that price point, I would like to. I know R6mkII is quite a bit higher than that, but am willing to spend it if I have to. This may be a dumb question, but would a "better" DSLR be a better option with my current set up? I am extremely new to all of this and feel so lost!

Re: Upgrading my Rebel T7 to a mirrorless R7? R8? R6 Mk II?.. HELP!

deebatman316 — Thu, 25 Sep 2025 19:30:31 GMT

DSLRs are at the end of life and have been discontinued. Future support for DSLRs is becoming less. Not to mention EF lenses have been discontinued and support is running out. DSLRs are a dead end system. You’ll run into the same limitations with your current lenses on a newer higher end DSLR. Also EF-S lenses are INCOMPATIBLE with Full Frame DSLRs such as the EOS 6D Mark II. So to use all your lenses an APS-C DSLR such as an EOS Rebel, EOS 7D series or EOS 90D.

Re: Upgrading my Rebel T7 to a mirrorless R7? R8? R6 Mk II?.. HELP!

March411 — Fri, 26 Sep 2025 01:49:47 GMT

I would have to agree with a lot of what Rick and Demetrius have said in an attempt to assist you finding a new body.

Unless you purchase an R7 which is $1500 the EF-S 18-55mm f/3.5-5.6 IS II is kind of a loss. Lucky the majority of the lenses you have will work with the new R series Full Frame bodies. Just be aware that EF lenses will not allow you to use the R body to it's full potential. Shooting sports will will not be able to achieve the higher burst rates. If you can stretch you budget around $400 the R6 Mk II ($1900) is a real nice body and would be a monumental upgrade to where you are today. Just know that if you purchase either of these two today both have a new release expected out shortly. I own the R6 MkII and don't plan to upgrade, it does everything I need and produces excellent images.

Both bodies I mentioned have IBIS (in body image stabilization) although I believe on the R7 in-body IS operation has to be selected when using a non-IS lens, the choices are always on or only for shot. This will help some with the older lenses that lack IS while you put away a little money to upgrade your lens stable. EF lenses work well but if you want to ensure compatibility make sure that you only use the Canon EF/RF adapter. I tried to do it on the cheap with the adapter when I converted to mirror-less and wasted money. Their performance was slow and inconsistent.

Re: Upgrading my Rebel T7 to a mirrorless R7? R8? R6 Mk II?.. HELP!

LeeP — Fri, 26 Sep 2025 01:50:57 GMT

I adore my R100 and the 28mm pancake lens. It's a very capable, go-anywhere, tiny, almost-pocketable camera that is so inexpensive that you don't worry excessively about it. It's simple on the surface but packed with capability for a ridiculously low price.

I also adore my R8. Very affordable for a full-frame camera and it's never missed a step.

I'm not a believer in buying expensive cameras or expensive lenses as a sign that I am "a photographer". Throughout my entire time as a photographer, I've preferred using basic cameras well rather than believing that the camera makes the photographer.

Would I turn my nose up at an R1 is someone gave one to me? Of course not, but the R1 isn't my "jam" as photographer.

The right camera is the crossroads of what you're willing to spend and an honest assessment of where you're "at" as a photographer.

Re: Upgrading my Rebel T7 to a mirrorless R7? R8? R6 Mk II?.. HELP!

LeeP — Fri, 26 Sep 2025 01:54:12 GMT

Indeed. It pained me to get rid of my DSLR Canons despite being old and well-used. I've slowly replaced some of my EF lenses with RF as well.

Re: Upgrading my Rebel T7 to a mirrorless R7? R8? R6 Mk II?.. HELP!

wq9nsc — Fri, 26 Sep 2025 02:08:21 GMT

Out of your camera choices, the R6 Mark II is going to be your best bet because of the generally better performance of its full frame sensor in low lighting so typical for sports and unlike the other full frame (R8) in your possibles list the R6 Mark II has a larger battery which you will need for sports. With either of those bodies, you will need to bring batteries but with the R8 you will need several batteries for an event.

Also when you get serious about shooting sports, make sure to keep an eye on the battery and change it before it shuts the camera down in the middle of a good play. Lens AF performance will also begin to drop as the battery reaches critical discharge and this becomes particularly noticeable when shooting a burst during a fast moving play. I am not moving away from my 1DX III bodies anytime soon and battery life is one reason since they will do around 5,000 to 7,000 captures before it is due for a recharge so I typically make it through 2 or 3 events between charges and don't worry about needing to change batteries during an event. It isn't a big deal but you do want to be sure to make the battery change at an appropriate stop in action rather than miss something critical.

With sports, just because you can acquire a huge number of images at close to zero cost doesn't mean it is a good idea. The "spray and pray" approach to sports photography often results in a ton of mediocre images and one or two usable while using a more skilled approach forces you to stay highly involved with the activity which will yield better shots and far less to do in post. Last Friday was a typical HS football night for me, I captured just under 1,000 images between two bodies and kept 270 of them. Well over half of the images were pretty good but after two or three great shots of a particular running back cutting through traffic you don't need 50 more 😂

Location is critical to sports photography and you have to know the sport well enough to know where the play is going a high percentage of the time. You also have to be smart about not having your view blocked, for example when shooting from behind the end zone you want to make sure that the goalpost doesn't come between you and the point of reception or the point where a runner crosses the goal line. Of course you have to stay well out of the way of officials but you also have to be aware of their location and its impact on your photo. An official signaling a TD in the background of the player crossing the goal line makes an excellent photo but an official signaling a TD who is standing between you and the player is no good. Just a couple of steps to one side or the other will often be the difference between a great photo and one destined for the digital dumpster.

Your 70-200 f2.8 is a great sports len, I always have an EF 70-200 f2.8 on one body. I have never used the Tamron 24-70 f2.8 but it should also be a good lens and is excellent for shooting low and close during basketball. You will want a longer telephoto for football and it needs to be fast and that unfortunately is expensive. I used a Canon EF 300 f2.8 for a couple of years for football and I think it is probably optically the best lens ever made by Canon and produces beautiful images; I now primarily use a 400 f2.8 which has a little better reach and the optical quality is also excellent but I don't think it quite matches the incredible EF 300. Unfortunately all of the long fast primes are expensive but a used one should be a serious consideration.

I think you will find your variable aperture 75-300 too slow in both maximum aperture and focus speed to be a good sports lens except for daytime sports. The 70-200 f2.8 and a fast longer focal length (primes are GREAT) will make a great long-term combo for you. The first two photos below were captured with EF 400 f2.8 glass and the second two with the EF 70-200 f2.8, all on 1DX III bodies.

Rodger

Re: Upgrading my Rebel T7 to a mirrorless R7? R8? R6 Mk II?.. HELP!

deebatman316 — Fri, 26 Sep 2025 02:37:41 GMT

I will say bodies come and go. But lenses are the real investment. What was once top of the line will be displaced by a newer model. I’m still holding on to my old EOS 40D. It doesn’t see as much use as it did when it was brand new. When it came out it had to serve as the top of the line APS-C DSLR. The original EOS 7D wouldn’t be released until 2009. It makes a great learning tool when comparing APS-C vs Full Frame. It also makes teaching external speedlite use easier. Showing the old and new menu system. Also limitations of older bodies and the newer RT system. Also how older EX series interface with cameras that support the in camera flash menu. It can only show basic settings that are grayed out or missing. Nothing can be changed from the camera menu. It also shows a turning point in Canon’s EX series speedlites. All EX and 5 pin EL series speedlites work with full compatibility. Some speedlites rely on the camera menu to change settings. The EOS 40D brought us that capability in 2007 along with the 580EX II. Older cameras are not fully compatible with speedlites that rely on the camera menu. Basic functionality cannot be set without the camera menu. Such as FEC, Curtain Sync or fire an AF Assist Beam. Canon added additional hardware to camera bodies to support these features. For older cameras I only recommend newer EX series speedlites with an LCD screen. Or an older EX series speedlite for full compatibility. Newer EX series speedlites without an LCD screen. Are very dependent on a camera menu to set the speedlite’s settings. Without it you can’t change any settings on the speedlite.