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HDR with Canon 5D Mark IV

Choreo
Contributor

Just received a new Canon 5D Mk IV and am about half way through the manual.

 

I am a bit confused about using this camera to create HDR photos?

 

Please correct me if I am wrong!

 

From what I gather, there are at lease (2) methods of creating HDRs:

(1) Using the 5D IV's built-in HDR function

(2) Using AEB to create a series of individual exposures and merge them in a dedicated HDR program (like Aurora)

 

Assuming my understanding is correct, from what I am reading, the in-camera HDR only works with JPEGs (not RAW) while going the AEB route could create a series of larger RAW images to merge in say Aurora.

 

Is that correct?

1 ACCEPTED SOLUTION

Thanks for the reply!

 

Your quote was the same one I read in the manual last night that triggered my post.

 

So, my guess is, if I DO want to build my own HDR composites in a program like Aurora HDR, then my best bet would be to ignore the in-camera HDR feature and just shoot a series in RAW using AEB set to 3, 5, or 7 exposures?

 

 

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8 REPLIES 8

lly3988
Rising Star

You can still shoot raw but the final HDR image wil be Jpeg. You may choose to save the source + HDR images or just the HDR image.

 

Quoted from the Canon website :

"If the image-recording quality is set to RAW, the HDR image will be recorded in quality. If the image-recording quality is set to RAW+JPEG, the HDR image will be recorded in the JPEG quality set. "

Thanks for the reply!

 

Your quote was the same one I read in the manual last night that triggered my post.

 

So, my guess is, if I DO want to build my own HDR composites in a program like Aurora HDR, then my best bet would be to ignore the in-camera HDR feature and just shoot a series in RAW using AEB set to 3, 5, or 7 exposures?

 

 

Hello Choreo, 

 

Yes, if you wanted to do your own HDR composites, then shooting AEB with 5 or 7 shots selected so you can combine the different exposure ranges. 

Did this answer your question? Please click the Accept as Solution button so that others may find the answer as well.

Your HDR menu in the camera allows you to save your three original photos as well as the composite HDR photo.  The three originals are saved in RAW format if that is your basic setting.  Only the composite HDR photo is a JPEG.  This gives you the best of both worlds.  You can process the three originals in an HDR app if you wish to have more control over the final result, or process the JPEG if it does the job.  An advantage of using the in-camera HDR function rather than bracketing is that with the former you can use mirror lock-up for all three exposures.  This produces less vibrations and (I think) takes less time.  The disadvantage if that you are limited to three exposures.

I am also a newcomer  to MK IV and feelling my way around. I noticed that the dynamic range is limited to +/- 3 EV.  When I tried a shot with poor lit indoors and brightly lit outdoors through windows, the result was indeed poor. The brightness difference between the indoor and the outdoor scenes apparently was much more than 3EV. The result was an underexposed indoor- overexposed overexposed window images. Is there a way to increase the "spacing" between consecutive shots to more than +/-3EV? If this is not possible I figure that in-camera HDR is indeed insufficient for all intents and purposes and software is required for proper processing.


@Epicuros wrote:

I am also a newcomer  to MK IV and feelling my way around. I noticed that the dynamic range is limited to +/- 3 EV.  When I tried a shot with poor lit indoors and brightly lit outdoors through windows, the result was indeed poor. The brightness difference between the indoor and the outdoor scenes apparently was much more than 3EV. The result was an underexposed indoor- overexposed overexposed window images. Is there a way to increase the "spacing" between consecutive shots to more than +/-3EV? If this is not possible I figure that in-camera HDR is indeed insufficient for all intents and purposes and software is required for proper processing.


You should really start your own new thread.

I never do in-camera HDR because more times than not, I am creating a HDR shot because the camera’s metering system is being fooled into making a poor exposure.  I take a series of manual exposures, and combine them in post.

But, if wanted to let the camera do it automatically, maybe dialing in some exposure compensation might be a cure.

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"The right mouse button is your friend."

Thanks for your response. You are right, I should have stared my own thread; just thought that the issue is the same...

If it is marked as "solved" folks often won't bother with new posts on the thread.

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