Cannot take ANY focused moving object photos using my new 1D X MKII and my EF 100-400mm f/4.5-5.6L

[LanceA]

First let me familiarize you with my back ground a bit.  I have enjoyed photography off and on for some time.  However, my previous camera was a 2003 Canon 10D.  I really decided to take a bit of a step up when purchasing a new 1D X MKII, the above listed lense as well an EF 24-70mm f/2.8L  II USM  lense.   I purchased a nice gimble, a shoulder rig, 4 large C-Fast cards, extra batteries, etc...

The 4K 60 FPS videos are spectacular through this setup (could do without the Motion JPEG Codec for sure), and the functionality is a breeze.

But I am far more interested in the still photography side of my Canon 1D X MKII and lenses.   I have read the ebtire manual several times and the on-line available AF setup guide from Canon.   My camera and both lenses, as well as my older Canon lenses, have no prblems when auto focusing on STILL objects, but as soon as there is movement such as a large water bird flying by my position, then I cannot get this camera to focus AT ALL.   I have no issues when maintaining the bird (as an example) in the focus area of the lense, then activating the back button focus while depressing the photo button.   Even at 14 frames per second I end up with zero shots in focus!   I have tried almost every AF area selection mode and all 6 of the Focus Cases  along with everything else that a very inexperienced novice such as I can think of.   I really hope that I am simply missing something that someone here can help me uncover.  I am so frustrated at this point that I am willing to pay someone who owns a similar setup to walk me through their 1D X MKII setup to hopefully get to the bottom of my issue.  Unfortunately I cannot find anyone in my area and we no longer have any camera shops around.

Thank you very much for you help and and understanding in advance.

Lance A.  

[RobertTheFat]

---

@ebiggs1 wrote:

"... allowing this big pro camera to automatically set basic features..."

As a rule of thumb, the more advanced and professional camera you choose the less it does for you automatically. That is the way it should be.  Keep it basic until you learn and progress and you will be fine.

I am a keep IS 'on' person.  However, it is not impossible to shoot very nice shots without IS.  In fact the faster your SS the less you need IS.  Remember at one time there was no IS on any tele.  We did managed in spite of that.  Amazing, I know!

---

Ernie makes a good point. But the way I'd put it is that the more advanced the camera, the more difference there is between what it can do automatically and what it can do in the hands of a skilled, experienced photographer. The principal difference between a 1DX2 in auto mode and a cell phone is that the former has a better lens and a better sensor. Everything else requires skill and understanding on the part of the user. But you appear to realize that, so I think you're on the right track. You're at least as well equipped as most of us are, so you should fit right into the group, should you elect to do so.

[ebiggs1]

"...you should fit right into the group, should you elect to do so."

Say, hey! Ditto. Another 1 series guy.

[Waddizzle]

---

@LanceA wrote:

So,  I had made a novice/stupid assumtion that allowing this big pro camera to automatically set basic features such as; shutter speed, aperature etc.....,  would be safe for capturing some moving subject stills, I was wrong.  My cameras' shutter speed was set to 1/80.  I reset to 1/1000 while at 400mm on moving birds.  I have yet to capture a lager subject flying by at a closer range, but I have captured several smaller (Kites) subjects at a bit of distance.  Every photo, set to HS, came out clear!

Thanks a bunch for pointing me in the right direction.   Oh, I also disabled my lenses' IS for moving shots.  I have sooooo much more to learn and understand.

Lance A. 

---

Take note of the focusing distance switch on the lens.  It really can make a big difference. 

When your shutter speed is pushing 1/2000, or higher, I'm not sure how useful IS can actually be.  I would not worry about turning of IS with that combo.  I'd worry more about which IS mode to use.

Kites are good subjects to use for practice, and to hone your tracking skills.  I find birding is a lot like fishing.  You have to find a good time to go to a good spot, and wait it out.

[jrhoffman75]

A tip from Canon-Europe:

[TTMartin]

---

@jrhoffman75 wrote:

A tip from Canon-Europe:

---

Canon USA recommends using Image Stabilization even when shooting at higher shutter speeds because in lens Image Stabilization also stabilizes the image for the Focus Sensor and it can improve auto focus especially when shooting at a high frames per second. 

A Look at The Canon Autofocus System Part 1

A Look at The Canon Autofocus System Part 2

A Look at The Canon Autofocus System Part 3 

[cicopo]

Sorry I wasn't able to contribute today but I have a 3 day R/C jets event to shoot. One day down & 2 to go but it looks like we're making progress. 1/80 really kills any chance of a sharp photo when the target is in flight. As for IS I have read that Canon feels it helps the AF do it's job even when not needed because of a high shutter speed in many on line discussions & I use it for my events. The ONLY time IS has softened photos was when using (Canon brand) lenses which only have IS for use in shooting stationary subjects. When the lens has a panning mode for the IS I use it. 

[TTMartin]

For the EF 100-400 L IS II, I leave the image stabilization ON, but, use Mode 3*.

Mode 3* is a relatively recent development from Canon and is on a limited number of Canon L IS II lenses including the EF 100-

400 L IS II. Before commenting on whether IS should be ON or OFF on the EF 100-400 L IS II, please be sure you are familiar with Mode 3*.

A couple recent shots with the EF 100-400 L IS II + 1.4X TC III (IS ON, Mode 3*)

* Newly Added IS Mode 3: The new IS II super-telephoto lenses are the first to introduce Canon’s new IS Mode 3.  This new stabilization mode is similar to IS Mode 2 in the respect that it can detect and correct for panning by shutting off IS correction in the panning direction, but the difference is that IS correction occurs only during the actual exposure in IS Mode 3. (As in IS Modes 1 and 2, camera shake and panning detection occurs whenever the shutter button is pressed halfway.) As a result, the image in the viewfinder moves more naturally while panning, and battery power is conserved. This feature is expected to be welcomed by sports photographers as well as those who photograph birds in flight.

Canon's Series II Super-Telephoto Lenses and Series III Extenders, by Chuck Westfall

[LanceA]

Thanks,

My learning curve is still quite sharp, but I am now able to take focused stills of moving objects.  I will try leaving IS on #3.

[Waddizzle]

---

@LanceA wrote:

Thanks,

My learning curve is still quite sharp, but I am now able to take focused stills of moving objects.  I will try leaving IS on #3.

---

The learning curve should always be quite sharp.  The moment you notice that it is not, is the moment when you realize you have become stagnant.  This is true of any discipline, not just photography.

[DaBrownCO]

"The learning curve should always be quite sharp.  The moment you notice that it is not, is the moment when you realize you have become stagnant.  This is true of any discipline, not just photography."

WOW! Love it Waddizzle! So true, but something we often forget.