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Help with setting of canon rebel 550d - 360 panorama

99designs
Apprentice

Hi, I am trying to do setting of the camera to shooting virtual tour 360 degree with canon 550d + Samyang 8mm F3.5 Fisheye. I read a lot of information and videos and all of them the starting with shooting of the images. My problem is that I can not uderstand how correctly do setting of the camera. I got it how to shoot the images and build the 360 panorama. But I can not find right combination of the setting :

- white balance - but how actualy choise white balance setting ? some of the bloggers write about "lock white balance" how to do it ?

- ISO - so need to be high or low ISO ?

- manula mode - that is ok I found it

- exposure - how to set up ?

I found step by step tutorials but the part with canon setting no ...

Thanks!

25 REPLIES 25

White balance does not directly affect exposure, as exposure is the amount of light coming through the lens. What I think you might be missing is in the RAW sensor data there is no WB.  It doesn't exist so it can't change anything.

 

Here is what I think you are saying;

White balance, or more correctly color temperature, may affect how some cameras meter in some cases.  That has to do with the metering sensor and system in the camera.  WB can affect the histogram that could affect exposure.  Clipping a single color channel due to how the camera meters for instance.  This could cause you to, say, underexpose to avoid the clipping. This is a metering problem with the camera not the fact the RAW data was corrupted by WB.  This is an issue that will be displayed in the viewable jpg in post but easily corrected in the RAW file.

 

Remember the RAW data is just 1's and 0's.

EB
EOS 1DX and 1D Mk IV and less lenses then before!


@ebiggs1 wrote:

White balance does not directly affect exposure, as exposure is the amount of light coming through the lens. What I think you might be missing is in the RAW sensor data there is no WB.  It doesn't exist so it can't change anything.

 

Here is what I think you are saying;

White balance, or more correctly color temperature, may affect how some cameras meter in some cases.  That has to do with the metering sensor and system in the camera.  WB can affect the histogram that could affect exposure.  Clipping a single color channel due to how the camera meters for instance.  This could cause you to, say, underexpose to avoid the clipping. This is a metering problem with the camera not the fact the RAW data was corrupted by WB.  This is an issue that will be displayed in the viewable jpg in post but easily corrected in the RAW file.

 

Remember the RAW data is just 1's and 0's.


Yes, that is pretty much what I am saying.  I'm talking about the how the camera determines exposure settings, and whether or not they can interact with one another, which, in turn, eventually determines and affects what gets recorded as RAW data.

I am at the point where I am more and more working with batches of files, instead of single images at a time.  Setting a proper WB on a batch of files can be problematic.  I ask myself why is AWB coming up with different values as I track a rabbit hopping for a short distance across grass.  I have turned off AWB, and my exposures have been closer to the ideal.

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"The right mouse button is your friend."

Here is where I believe we depart and why you are of thinking it incorrectly.  The WB setting only effects the display.  It does not effect the RAW data.  What you are seeing, and if it bothers you there is no good reason to not do it as you desire, is the jpg display image.  Even the LCD monitor on the back of the camera but still not the RAW data.  Remember there isn't even a histogram in RAW.

 

Most if not all the pros I know us AWB and shoot RAW.  I have heard some say they don't like to differing thumbs in LR, too. But they know it isn't the RAW file they are seeing.

EB
EOS 1DX and 1D Mk IV and less lenses then before!


@ebiggs1 wrote:

Here is where I believe we depart and why you are of thinking it incorrectly.  The WB setting only effects the display.  It does not effect the RAW data.  What you are seeing, and if it bothers you there is no good reason to not do it as you desire, is the jpg display image.  Even the LCD monitor on the back of the camera but still not the RAW data.  Remember there isn't even a histogram in RAW.

 

Most if not all the pros I know us AWB and shoot RAW.  I have heard some say they don't like to differing thumbs in LR, too. But they know it isn't the RAW file they are seeing.


You're too hung up on believing I dont' understand a RAW file.  I understand that WB is applied to how an image is displayed.  I'm talking about how the camera determines exposure settings BEFORE the shot is taken, and why do I get more mystery over/under exposures with AWB than when i use a fixed WB setting.  And, this happens on all of my camera bodies, not just one.  

In fact, when I go get the erroneous over/under exposure the AWB setting seems to be in the wrong ball park.  If I am shooting  outdoors on a sunny day, I might have a shot with a lot of dynamic range, not necessarily backlit, just a lot of DR.  I can take a handful of shots, and most will have WB settings pretty close to one another.  But, i will get the occasional over/under exposure in a series, and its' White Balance will be inconsistent with the rest of the batch, too.

--------------------------------------------------------
"The right mouse button is your friend."

I do understand what you are saying, totally.  But it is the jpg thumbs that you are viewing not the RAW file.

 

" i will get the occasional over/under exposure in a series, and its' White Balance will be inconsistent with the rest of the batch, too."

 

I have no doubt you do.  But it is the thumbs, remember. A RAW file has to have a conversion to something.  When you get that first look at it, you are seeing what ever settings you choose in your camera to make that thumb in LR.  It is up to you to make a decision on what the photo should look like.  If it bothers you to see differing thumbs, by all means try to set things in the camera as correctly as you can.  But with RAW that is unnecessary except for exposure.

 

Example let's consider, WB, picture style, noise reduction, sharpening, etc.   If you set AWB for discussion, the WB values for that particular shot, that your camera saw, will be recorded in the metadata.    This metadata provides a set of all the variables your in-camera jpg engine would have used to make a jpg.   If you use a RAW converter like DPP or LR, it will understand those parameters.  It will then be able to produce exactly, more of less, the same JPEG as the camera would have made.

 

Shutter speed, aperture, and to a lesser degree, ISO are the only settings that are constant to a RAW file.

 

You know now on second thought, you say you like Auto ISO, that could contribute to the variables you see in your thumbs. Try using a fixed ISO and see if it helps or changes anything.

EB
EOS 1DX and 1D Mk IV and less lenses then before!

"If it bothers you to see differing thumbs, by all means try to set things in the camera as correctly as you can. But with RAW that is unnecessary except for exposure."

 

Come on, don't stop now.  We're almost on the same page, exposure.  Exposures, over and under exposures, is all that I have been talking about all along.  As for trying a fixed ISO goes, that's exactly why I am now using a fixed WB setting.

 

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As far as "semi manual" goes, then that is a figure of speech..  The cameras give you the ability to grant the camera control over any single leg of the exposure triangle, any pair of legs, or all three legs. 

 

The Av and Tv modes let you give control of just aperture, or just shutter spped.  Using ISO Auto in Manual mode lets the camera take control of just the ISO, while you control aperture and shutter.  That's control over any single leg.

Using ISO Auto in Av and Tv modes gives the camera control over shutter and ISO, and aperture and ISO, respecttively.  Dialing in a fixed ISO in P mode gives the camera control over the last pair of settings, aperture and shutter.  Of course, P mode allows the camera to control all three legs of the exposure triangle.

 
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"The right mouse button is your friend."
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